Back in 2017, four years after starting this blog, I decided to try to be more balanced while describing life in Florence. Till that point I focused on all the wonderful aspects of exploring life here without regard to the negative side. Thus, the first post titled: The Good, The Bad and the Ugly. https://fondlyfromflorence.com/2017/10/27/the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly-reflections-of-a-frequent-traveler-to-florence/
Now almost nine years later It’s time to reevaluate.
What I am learning (yes, still learning) is that you can’t have the good without some bad and ugly. Florence is a very old city. There will be construction to maintain it. Also lots of the city is undergoing major construction on roadways to accommodate a new tram line. The construction does cause traffic and inconvenience to pedestrians as they try and cross the big boulevard, the Viali di Circonvallazione, (which we refer to it as the Viale). However the end result will be a much needed improvement to the city that will ease traffic and smog in the city. The tram lines that already exist provide routes that start at the airport and get to the center of Florence as well as a route that goes to the largest hospital in the city.
The Viale
Yes, the sidewalks are still difficult to navigate due to broken cobblestones and pavement.
As far as the ugly sightings of dog poop in the streets I have noticed an improvement over the years. However one needs to continue to look down while walking due to the broken streets and some irresponsible dog owners.
Also small clusters of people can stop on the narrow sidewalks to have conversations and do not make room for others to pass forcing them to step into the streets. I’ve decided that it must be a cultural difference. Saying “mi scusi” (excuse me) sometimes helps, but often are not headed. So continue to watch your step.
Enough of bad and ugly, now for the GOOD…the wonderful “Quartiere” of Sant’Ambrogio.
We (my husband and I) have lived part time in this neighborhood for 19 years. Each time we return we feel so lucky to have made the decision to live in this vibrant neighborhood. Every year we see new additions to the area. If one wants to experience an area that is full of locals without many tourists, this is it.
About a ten minute walk east of the Duomo you can find the Piazza with Sant’Ambrogio church greeting you. Yes it’s currently under repair but is open (dates back to the ninth century). You can find people sitting on the church steps as well as the Cafeteria Ditta Artigianale, to the left of the church on the corner of Via Carducci. It occupies what once was the cloister of the church. Now the garden and part of the cloister houses Ditta Artigianale and a building dedicated to the offices of the church.
Ditta Artigianale, former cloister of Sant’Ambrogio church
To the right of the church is the very famous Cibreo complex of one bar, three restaurants and the Teatro del Sale. All created by Fabio Picchi and now under the direction of his son and wife as he passed a few years ago. He was so dedicated to this area and Florence in general.
On June 4-June 6th “Sant’Ambrogio in Festival” took place. It has now become an annual event to honor Picchi (2006 marked the 4th edition) and a community event to also honor the life of the quartiere, ending, with an dinner in piazza dei Ciompi
Piazza dei Ciompi
Love that this is a true Florentine neighborhood. Still, Mom and Pop shops, a wonderful daily outdoor farmer’s market with inside shops dedicated to meat, fish and groceries as well as a casual lunch spot and so much more…
Trippaio stand on Piazza Sant’Ambrogio Best hardware store anywhere Linen Shop Ragno pants, tops
& Gallo socks!
The neighborhood is home to the Jewish Synagogue and Museum which is open daily, exception Saturday. It was built in 1882 in the Moorish style. It’s hugh green dome is part of the Florentine skyline.
TempleMaggiore Israelitico di Firenze
This quartiere is also home to Piazza Azeglio, a green oasis that is loved by the community. A carousel, basketball court, playground and a dog area are some of the perks of this park. It’s so refreshing to walk from the crowded center of Florence and catch your breath here. It is full of children, adults of all ages and well behaved dogs.
Stately homes around the park
The Bar d’Azeglio is on the corner of Via Mattonaia and Via Pietra Giordani. A great place for lunch, run by the same family for generations. We have lunch there as often as we can. Feels like family! Don’t miss the fried fish (frittura di pesce) on Fridays.
Andrea, the great barista, his wife,Valentina and her sister, Benedetta
I heard someone recently say that this area is the Nirvana of restaurants. Fine dining at Cibreo & also Nugolo, a Michelin rated restaurant on Via della Mattonaia. Wild Buns and Ditta Artiginale for breakfast and brunch…. Gelateria De’Medici in Piazza Beccaria…delish ice cream…biscotti at Leonardo’s, a great bakery on Via dei Macci not far from Teatro del Sale and cake at Dolci & Dolcezze in Piazza Beccaria. I can go on and on…
Visit this neighborhood when in Florence. You will not be disappointed!
Ce Vediamo la prossima volta (See you next time)
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