Fondly From Virtual Florence

In this time of the pandemic Covid 19, travel plans have had to be put on hold. Disappointing for sure.  Those of you who were looking forward to visiting Florence may still be able to enjoy museums tours and as well as special presentations given by some of Florence’s most sought after art historians and tour guides…all online.   Think of this as a time to build your foundation in all things Florentine so when the world opens up for business you will be all set to go. So take a break from Netflix streaming and tune into Florence.

The following link takes you to Art Historian Elaine Ruffolo’s web site.  Last Sunday I joined her zoom presentation on the highlights of the life of the artist Caravaggio. There were close to 300 in attendance. It was a very special treat. Sunday, April 26 she will be discussing Michelangelo. Check her website for future virtual presentations. Not only will you be experiencing first rate events, presented by an expert you also will be better prepared to enjoy your trip to Florence hopefully in the near future.

https://www.elaineruffolo.com

There are over 70 museums in Florence and some have virtual tours. Two that have a good selection of virtual tours are the Uffizi and Grand Museo del Duomo

https://www.uffizi.it/mostre-virtuali

The bight side of a virtual tour: No lines, no crowds, no scaffolding. Below, Palazzo Vecchio, The Loggia della Signoria and the Uffizi Museum

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https://www.museumflorence.com/museum

Works at the Museum of the Duomo, including Michelangelo’s last Pieta.

At the start of the quarantine in Florence, the Councilor for Culture and President of the Teatro della Toscana established an open and shared forum for artists to contribute and use a venue to stream concerts, and performances through a you tube channel: https://tinyurl.com/firenzetv

Another good site to visit is the website from the Opera Theater of Florence to check for news of virtual concerts: https://www.maggiofiorentino.com/en/home/

Let’s continue to take comfort connecting with our families, friends and communities  through platforms such as zoom, skype, What’s App and to also travel to our favorite destinations. Florence is just a click away!

Stay Safe!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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“I’m ill” (Sto male). Where to get help when ill in Florence

At this moment in time the world is close to a pandemic level of the Coronavirus virus. Italy is experiencing (COVID-19) with an alarming number of cases.  Updates on the crisis are released daily.

This brings up the topic of tourists, students and/or visitors to Florence who may experience illness of all types when traveling.

Often I get questions from friends who are embarking upon a trip to Italy as to what can they do if they become ill while there…

Full disclosure, I’m not in Florence as I write due to the travel restrictions imposed by both the US and Italy.  However I can share with you some suggestions as to what to do if medical help is needed while on a visit.

As a reassurance to the quality of health care in Italy, please note that Italy is often ranked in the top 10 countries world wide for best healthcare.  In 2019 has been ranked number 2, (on the same list the US ranked number 37).

http://worldpopulationreview.com/countries/best-healthcare-in-the-world/

Excellent medical assistance is readily available all 24/7.

In an emergency, you get yourself to a hospital either with a taxi or in severe situations, call an ambulance (Know the address where you are staying or where the emergency occurred): dial 118. If you live in the center of Florence you will be taken to Santa Maria Nuova, address: Piazza S. Maria Nuova 1: Tel. 055-27581
This is the not only a beautiful historic hospital but also a good hospital.

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A bit further from the center of the city is Careggi Hospital (Ospedale Careggi). It is the university hospital and considered the best in Florence.  Usually if in an ambulance you will be taken to the closest hospital.

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Careggi University Hospital, University of Florence

Largo Brambilla 3

50134, Florence, Italy

055 794 111; 055 794 7790

 

The Meyer hospital is the University of Florence pediatric hospital located in Careggi at Viale Pieraccini 24 50139 Firenze Italy – Phone 055 56621

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*Note that during this current health crisis re: Cornovirus (COVID-19), a triage system is in effect. Folks will be screened before entering the emergency room in an outdoor tent like structure on the hospital property.

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These hospitals are well staffed and offer excellent care.

The Misericordia, is a charitable institution founded in 1244  to care for the sick.  Over the centuries it has evolved to one of the most important  health organizations in Italy.  In Florence it supplies the majority of ambulance transportation, staffed by volunteers. Also doctors who are in private practice as well as public, may donate their services  an average of one day a week, to offer care for office visits at a minimum price.  These days about 42 euros, which covers administrative fees. On the site’s website you can also book appointments with specialists  who have their full resume posted.  We have often used their services and have been most satisfied. These are the very same well qualified doctors who work in the best hospitals in Florence. Appointments are much easier to get then waiting  weeks to see specialists in their offices. The Misericordia has offices in various neighborhoods of Florence, including the main office near the Duomo and close to the historic Museum of the Misericordia.

https://www.misericordia.firenze.it

If you are a resident in Florence you can belong to the public healthcare system and find a general physician in your neighborhood.  When we lived in Florence full time we were able to see our doctor usually the next day and in some cases have the doctor make a home visit.  These general practitioners can offer services to those who are not in the system and you would be charged for the visit.  To get names of doctors in the area you are staying, go to your local pharmacy to get some recommendations.   The local farmacia is an important resource in Italy.  Staffed with well trained pharmacists who also can preform such services as taking a simple blood test which gives you results within ten minutes. Their recommendations for medications are very accurate and some meds can be purchased without a doctor’s prescription,

The American Consulate offers a list of practitioners who speak in English as well as other medical resources.

 

The American Consulate located at Lungarno Vespucci, 38
Phone: (+39) 055.266.951 has lists of doctors who speak English as well as other medical resources.

U.S. Consulate General Florence

Most hospitals have a “guardia medica” which is a form of urgent care. It isn’t the emergency room, and it usually is reserved for times when a person’s regular physician is not available through normal business hours. Many tourists as well as residents use this service. Also an excellent system.

 

You can rest assured if in Italy there are many ways to get excellent assistance.

In this time of world concern about COVID_19,  I wish you safety and strength.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Tis the Season…Best Florentine Shops for Gifts in 2019

By the end of November, Florence is all aglitter with holiday lights and decorations. Great motivation to step into the alluring shops to pick up a trinket or two for those on your gift list whether for the holidays or just because…

One can find many categories of gifts in Florence.  The quality of design and  craftsmanship in Italian goods is exceptional and difficult to resist.   Leather goods, decorative paper, jewelry, clothing, chocolate, olive oil…so many choices. Your budget and shipping preferences (or carrying it back with you) will guide you.

At this time it seems that every day new shops pop up that feature Tuscan soaps, colognes, ambient infusers etc.  There is a boom of new fragrance shops. The oldest and my favorite is:

The Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella is in my opinion the not to be missed shop in Florence.  Yes there are many branches of SMN in many cities in Italy (and all over the world) and even a new tiny shop on Via Dei Calzaiuoli but none offer the experience of walking into the original historic shop on Via Della Scala, 16.  You will be swept away by the scents of the potpourri, colognes, soaps, as well as the stunning surroundings.  Before you sample the products make sure you walk through all the rooms. You then will need to sit in their tea room to try and decide how to choose from the treasure of offerings.  From ancient balms, healing waters to toiletries for all in the family including pets.

Dr. Vranjes’s shops specialize in elegant Ambient diffusers with special seasonal scents.

You can recognize his bottle as you enter many elegant boutiques, where it is prominently displayed.

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https://drvranjes.it/it/storelocator

One of the newest fragrance and candle shops is Poesia 21 on Via della Spada, 21. Very affordable, and organic with another shop in the art colony of Pietrasanta.

Tuscan chocolates are some of the best in Italy as well as delicious biscotti .

Vestri has a shop in Florence. It’s main store and laboratory are in Arezzo.

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Venchi has a couple of beautiful shops right in the center:

https://it.venchi.com/stores/firenze-calzaiuoli-duomo-italia

My absolute favorite is going to the source of the most delicious chocolate I have ever tasted but, be forewarned, it’s about a thirty minute car ride but one you will never regret.

 

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http://robertocatinari.it

Museo e Bottega Antonio Mattei for the original biscotti di Prato . This shop is on Via Porta Rossa, 76.  In this tiny shop you will find gift tins and bags of the classic cookie as well as new assortments that have added chocolate and pistachio.

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One stop shopping for all things delicious: Eataly; Pegna and the department store Rinascente

https://www.eataly.net/it_it/negozi/firenze

Servizi

https://www.rinascente.it/rinascente/en/store/80/florence/

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Many tourists like to visit the jewelry shops on Ponte Vecchio for gold and precious stones as well as pearl and coral pieces and there are many shops to visit.  I happen to be also a fan of handmade bobbles that are not made of precious metals but rather crystal and glass, as  well as Angela Caputi’s fabulous  jewelry made of resin.  Many Florentine women have at least one Angela Caputi necklace as well as crystal handmade earrings, bracelets or necklaces from Aprosio. (I feel very Florentine when I’m wearing these pieces, for sure, and that I have arrived.) Both shops are beautiful and worth a visit. There is a display of Angela Caputi in the museum shop of Palazzo Strozzi and Aprosio is now featured on the boutique fourth floor of Rinascente in addition to their beautiful flagship shops.

Brands made in Florence #3: Angela Caputi Giuggiù, unique and inimitable jewellery

https://www.yelp.com/biz/aprosio-e-co-firenze

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For clothing accessories I love Essere Atlier and OttoDame.

Essère Atelier

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https://www.ottodame.com/ee/

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Some ideas for gifts that are both lightweight and do not break the bank, are Florentine stationery, greeting cards, socks…Gallo are beautifully made socks and found in most better dry good shops.

Two of my favorite stationery shops are:

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Of course on Via de’ Tornabuoni, the Fifth Ave. of Florence, you will find Gucci, Ferragamo, Armani, Max Mara etc. but if you really want to find affordable small leather goods as well as some great practical international brands of luggage and handbags then visit one of the oldest shops in Florence located in Piazza Dei Ciompi: Brovelli

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I could go on and on about shopping in Florence…It is always a treat, whether just window shopping or doing some serious purchasing.

Wishing all the joys of the season and peace in 2020!

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Autumn Weekends in Florence and Enjoying the Rhythm of the City

As the weather turns cooler, visitor numbers are smaller and one can really feel the true vibe of Florentine life, without the distraction of navigating lines of tourists. One of my very favorite things to do here is to go with the flow.  On the weekends, city traffic is less and strolling in town is a pleasure.

Saturday traditionally is a shopping day and going to the outdoor food markets visiting the fruit & vegetable and meat stands, shoulder to shoulder with the locals, is a rite of passage. Sant’ Ambrogio market is the heart of our neighborhood and our Saturday ritual is doing our shopping there, stopping for a mid morning cappuccino, picking up flowers and the Saturday newspaper.  On this particular Saturday we arrived at the grand opening of the relocated flea market, Mercato delle Pulci, right across the road from the market.  Plenty of pomp and circumstance including the Florentine city ceremonial band in medieval costumes as well as the mayor and lots of journalists. A beautiful new location for antiques and bric-a-brac.

Sunday or “festa” as it is referred to in Italy to differentiate from the work day or “giorno feriale” is indeed a day to change your pace.  The wonderful bells announcing Mass throughout the morning and in the early evening will remind you to do just that – slow down. Florentines often go to museums before or after 1:00 pm lunch which is the one day a week that the country is in agreement with having a big meal at that hour as it has been done for centuries. (In the last few decades, the main daily meal has been moved to the evening as students as well as working parents are not coming home for lunch).

This Sunday, Palazzo Antinori’s special exhibit “La Firenze di Giovanni e Telemaco Signorini” ended. The lines for its seven week run were impressive.  My husband and I were happy to wait in line for an hour in the courtyard of this amazing building chatting with the locals about Antinori wine as well as the art we were about to view.  The paintings of life in Florence showed just how much the city has not changed over the centuries.  Beautiful and a tribute to this city!

 

Ponte alla Carraia                                Via Della Condotta

 

 

 

Don’t despair if you missed this exhibit, as the The Gallery of Modern Art at the Pitti Palace contains many works of the Macchiaioli, a form of Italian Impressionism in the second half of the 19th century, that were represented at the Palazzo Antinori exhibit.

 

For those travelers that are planning a trip here soon, take advantage of visiting the Palazzo Strozzi to see the exhibit of the Russian artist Natalia Goncharova. As always the Strozzi exhibits are not to be missed. The exhibit is scheduled to close on Jan, 12, 2020. Here are a few images form this show.

 

The best way to end a Sunday morning museum visit is having the Sunday meal at one of the best restaurants in this city…Il Latini, and it never disappoints.

Word of advise to visitors, after a few days of the mandatory sight seeing, save some time to be a local.  Follow their lead and savor their routines and customs to really understand the lifestyle of the Florentines.

 

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Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, traditions, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Food for Thought: Can One Eat Well in the Center of Florence?

It’s been two years since I last wrote about new eateries in Florence. Then, I highlighted three that were in the area of Sant’ Ambrogio, about a fifteen minute walk from the center, (well, the way I walk anyway).  https://wordpress.com/post/fondlyfromflorence.com/1651

Pescepane, https://www.pescepane.it  and Cucineria La Mattonaia, http://cucinerialamattonaia.com I can still happily report are wonderful.  As for Zibibbo 2.0, I have not been there recently but I have been told it continues to be outstanding, albeit pricey. Of course Trattoria Cesarino remains a favorite and has a daily changing menu. http://www.trattoriacesarino.it

On my past visit to Florence I realized that restaurants, very close to the center of Florence, (the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria, Via Tornabuoni) that are up to par, are few and far between.  The historic trattoria of 30 years ago is starting to show its age. There are so many tourists squeezed into the Center, that the service and quality of many restaurants can not meet the demand. Word to the wise, check references and do look at the negative reviews on Trip Advisor/Yelp etc.to see if there is a common thread of complaints, realizing that both good and bad reviews on these platforms may be quite subjective.

One can find very good restaurants that continue to deliver in the Center such as I Latini but many are now closed for lunch during the week making dinner reservations a must.

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Hanging prosciutto in this meat lover’s paradise Il Latini: http://www.illatini.com/it/ristorante

What does one do if wanting to eat lunch in the center of town after a busy morning of sightseeing or shopping?  Go to any number of excellent cafe/bars to recharge and rest.

The ultra chic clothing shop Luisa Via Roma has a causal Terrace cafe that is organic, with wonderful salads and light choices for very fair prices: https://www.maisonflaneur.com/venues/luisaviaroma-terrazza-by-floret/

 Luisa Via Roma, was renovating their space last I was in Florence so I will be eager to see their new digs.

Cafe Verrazzano serves the most wonderful assortments of freshly baked focaccia with toppings to make you drool as well as platters of cheese and meats to drink with a glass of their delicious chianti: http://www.verrazzano.com/la-cantinetta-in-firenze/

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Cafe Verrazzano

On Via Tourabouni is the historic Procacci panini bar (divine little sandwiches that are made with a cream of truffles with various meat, fish and egg fillings) featuring Antinori wine.  http://www.procacci1885.it/en/florence

                                                                      Procacci

For your main meal, it is worth it to walk to neighborhoods that are less frequented by tourists and/or drive or take public transportation to neighboring towns. Car sharing is cheaper than taking taxis, just download the apps: Car to Go; Adduma: & Enjoy, are three of the local companies.

Here are some of my favorites “out of the center” restaurants, not in any particular order.

Le Lune: A short bus ride (city bus ,ATAF #7) on the way to Fiesole is a lovely restaurant located on the grounds of a nursery.  You can also eat al fresco among the beautiful plants and flowers while enjoying your delicious meal. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d13536075-Reviews-Le_Lune_ristorante-Florence_Tuscany.html

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Here at Le Lune with friends. Always a great time.

Trattoria da Ruggero:  Just outside Porta Romana on Via Senese 89R, one can walk from the center of Florence or take a city bus #36 or #37  Great traditional Tuscan food. Two seatings at dinner and open for lunch, closed on Tuesday and Wednesday. https://www.cntraveler.com/restaurants/florence/da-ruggero

L’Oca Bonda: The Round Duck is a ten minute drive from Piazzale Michelagnelo on the Via Imprunetana Per Pozzolatico 154, opposite a quaint country church you will find a small shop and restaurant, Run by a couple who deliver incredible dishes starting with a focaccia that is irresistible.  Pasta dishes are served in their cooking woks, for lack of a better term for the deep skillets.  Everything is made to order.  Love their carbonara!  So worth the drive, which is through beautiful countryside.

L’Oca Bonda

https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g635637-d11858475-Reviews-L_Oca_Bonda-Impruneta_Tuscany.html

Ristoro di Lamole: For a restaurant that has it all, this is the one for you. A beautiful ride through Chianti countryside with unparalleled vistas as well as a gourmet menu.  I suggest lunch to enjoy the panorama. Drink the local wine while you drink it all in!

http://ristorodilamole.it/en/

This Fall I will be checking out the foodie scene and promise to update, as your requests center around food & perchè no. If you have some favorite discovery or other feedback please leave your input in the comment section. I’d love to hear from you.

A presto and buon appetito!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories: food | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Away from the Maddening Crowd…. especially during the Spring holidays

This year the Spring holidays of Easter, the April 25th Day of Liberation and the May 1, Day of the Worker, arrived within a 10 day period creating a vacation bonanza for Italians.  Add to the regular big crowds of Spring tourists from around the world and a recipe for major chaos and people traffic has been created.

Escaping the center of Florence and avoiding all major tourists attractions can be a solution, considering there are many lesser known but equally wonderful things to do in the surrounding hilltop towns.

Fiesole is a quick city bus ride (ATAF bus #7) three miles to the Northeast of Florence.  The town of Fiesole offers unparalleled views of Florence as well as Etruscan walls, Roman baths, and a spectacular Roman theater which hosts wonderful summer operas and concerts.

The exhibit,  Marcello Guasti, Giovanni Michelucci, and The History of the Monument of the Three Military Police (Il Monumento ai Tre Carabinieri: La Genesi Del Monumento: Slancio Verso L”Infinito)  coupled with a visit to the Park of Remembrance is well worth  your time.

The Monument was designed by Marcello Guasti  to commemorate the three military police who were killed in Fiesole by the Nazis on August 12, 1944. The day before Florence had been liberated the three young military police could not get to Florence from Fiesole as the roads were blocked, so they hid and when the Germans had found the barracks empty they threatened to kill ten civilians that were taken as hostages.  The three soldiers turned themselves in to save the civilians.  The city of Fiesole decided to commission a monument in their honor to be placed in the Park of Remembrance in 1964.

First going to the exhibit to see the evolution of the monument (explanations in both Italian and English) and then going to the Park, all within walking distance of each other is a moving and meaningful experience.

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The abstract monument is not typical of war memorials.  It is called “Slancio Verso L’Infinito”/”Lunging Towards Infinity” There can be many interpretations, as there are when one views art. The artist utilizes three pincer like tentacles from which a flame/fire emerges out of the middle. (The flame is the logo of the carabinieri.) The three are launched into infinity traveling over the valley of Florence.

The exhibit is in the Sala Costantini, Via Portigiani 9, Museo Civico Archeologico, Fiesole  https://guastifiesole.it/

Make a day of your visit and enjoy the delicious restaurants in Fiesole or on the road back to Florence.  A  favorite of mine is: Le Lune ristorante and vivaio (Le Lune restaurant and nursery) Via San Domenico, 36

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d13536075-Reviews-Le_Lune_ristorante-Florence_Tuscany.html

Here is a photo just across the road form Le Lune restaurant and nursery in San Domenico on the road to Fiesole:

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Enjoy the countryside, smell the flowers and leave the crowds behind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, food, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Stylin (Styling), Italians Do It Better!

Looking good or La Bella Figura is a way of life in Italy.  Milan is often at the top of the list when considering which city is the Fashion capital of the world. Interesting to note that the fashion boom got started here in Florence.  In 1952 in the White Room of the Pitti Palace was organized to hold it’s first International Fashion Show, with International press and buyers present.  Italian fashion was born. To the present, Pitti Uomo, Donna and Bambini are fashion events held throughout the year, and now at many other venues in Florence.  A time where International buyers and the press fill the city.

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The Sala Bianca/White Room of the Pitti Palace/Palazzo Pitti

However one does not need to attend one of the Pitti shows on the fashion circuit to see Italian fashion.  Just strolling on the streets of Florence one can easily see what is La Moda.

In years past I would often have fun trying to guess the color of the season just minutes after I arrived in the city.  Seasons of black, white, red, orange… Fashionistas wore the new colors and style like classy uniforms.

Today things have loosened up in the sense that I see more of a freedom of choices.  It is difficult today to pick out the color of the moment, yet anything that is worn is worn with a flair, with a nod to what is in Vogue. There for sure is an emphasis of colors that are “in”, especially by looking at merchandise hanging in the markets or in the beautifully designed shop windows or in the fashion magazines.  Last Fall, I saw lots of gold being displayed, and this Spring more of a yellow.

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Fall 2018, market stand in Florence

 

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Same Stand, Spring 2019

 

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Material shop, Florence

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Saturday insert “IO Donna” of Corriere Della Sera, April 6, 2019

Fashion and design are everywhere, yet I’m witnessing a new freedom of choices. Folks do not seem to be slaves of the latest trend and color. It’s their choice. There is a new confidence in the air.

Statements continue to be made and La Bella Figura is alive and well. It’s an attitude; a way of moving , a way of being. Italians just seem to wear it better. Whether, the tying or wrapping of a scarf or the number of bracelets you wear, it’s done with, well a panache.

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I’m convinced that if an Italian wore potato sacks they would do it with flair and look great. Go ahead have fun and see if you can pick out the tourists form the natives.  Here’s a hint, if you see a woman on a bike, wearing stiletto heels, talking on her cell phone in a great outfit, without a helmet, that’s a Florentine.  La Bella Figura reigns.

 

 

 

Categories: Culture observations, Observations in Florence, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Autumn in Florence, 2018

The weather has changed and Autumn finally has arrived in Florence.  Olio nuovo can be found in restaurants as well as gourmet stores and supermarkets. Funghi porcini, (porcini mushrooms) are displayed in open air markets as well as the most delicious Zucca di Mantova, (pumpkin). I was so inspired, I cooked, for the very first time a pumpkin soup alla  Napolitana, which is really more of a pasta dish. (zucca in dialect is called cocozza).

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Autumn is a feast for the senses, including, seeing many of the new exhibits in Florence.

The second floor or Primo Piano of the elegant and historic Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni, has been bought by the famous Florentine art collector Roberto Casamonti. Until May of 2019, the first half of his collection of twentieth century art to the early sixties  is exhibited.  I have rarely seen such an important and varied collection with works of Picasso, Kandinsky, Morandi, Chagall, Klee, de Chirico and Fattori just to name a few.

A selection of stunning contemporary art displayed in a Palazzo built five hundred years ago strikes a perfect balance.  The Palazzo Bartolini Salembeni is located on Via de Tornabuoni on Piazza Trinita.  We can anticipate the second half of this collection which is scheduled to be on display sometime in the later part of next year.

It is always special to spend some time on the grounds of Villa Bardini with its unparalleled views of Florence…

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And when the Museum is featuring two excellent exhibits , it’s a win-win.

The first exhibit, titled Florentia, is a collection of watercolors of botanical art organized by the Tuscan Society of Orticultura.   Approximately 80 original works by well known botanical artist from eleven different countries.

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The second, Fanfare e Silenzi/Celebration and Silence, focuses on the evolution of the work of the Florentine Impressionist painter Primo Conti. Also featuring some of his contemporaries who shared similar style.

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A couple of self portraits by Primo Conti

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Both exhibits have been so popular that they have been extended through January, 2018.

This Fall also saw the completion of the restoration of Piazza Dei Ciompi as well as the addition of a lovely garden full of roses.
The Loggia del Pesce, designed by Giorgio Vesari in 1567 was the site of the historic fish market, that was originally near the Ponte Vecchio, however Cosimo Medici  wanted it moved due to the stench of the fish so close to his home and offices.  It was dismantled in the mid nineteenth century and then rebuilt in the 1950’s using the saved structure. It is adorned with eight ceramic medallions of fishes.

Benches are arranged in groups in the gated garden, inviting strollers to take a rest and literally smell the roses.

So enjoy the seasonal dishes, check out the new openings and exhibits, catch the Fall season at the Teatro of Maggio (Opera House) and wish you had a lifetime to do it all.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, food | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

Domenica è Sempre Domenica! Sunday is Always Sunday!

The celebration of Sunday rituals is one of the best examples of Italian lifestyle that has persevered throughout the centuries. In fact on Italian calendars and time schedules Sunday is referred to as “festa” to distinguish it from weekdays.

The peaceful quiet of a Sunday morning is a welcome change to the hustle and bustle of weekday traffic noise. One can awake to the sounds of church bells announcing that soon it will be time for Mass.

And so Sundays begin with Mass at your neighborhood church

Sant’Ambrogio Church

Next off to the neighborhood bakery or pasticceria to pick up dessert for Sunday 1:00 lunch which is the main meal of the day. While picking up your dessert, might as well enjoy a cappuccino and pastry to serve as your after Mass breakfast.

Pasticceria Nencioni

A couple of more stops could include the Forno or bread shop, for your freshly baked bread as well as the Newsstand, Edicola, to pick up your Sunday paper.

Many families, or the parent who is not cooking the Sunday meal (or if lucky the grandparents are preparing the feast as only they know how to do), will accompany their child to the neighborhood park for an hour or so. Good idea to work up an appetite…

Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio

So after the huge feast, well what else, turn on the TV and root for your favorite soccer team and/or take a nap.

Weather permitting it’s time for an afternoon stroll or “Quattro passi”

Work up some more appetite and then Sunday night pizza in a pizzeria!

When I was younger, I often thought of liberating myself from what I then thought was just too structured and slow for the way I should spend my day. Now I realize there is much wisdom to the idea of some tradition and ritual. The rhythm of this way of life seems to put my body, mind and soul at ease. The beauty of a Buona Domenica.

Now for your enjoyment a clip from the 1950’s version of the Italian Sunday Ed Sullivan show:

Categories: Culture observations, traditions | Tags: | Leave a comment

August in Florence: Some Like it Hot

If you don’t mind the possible dog days of summer, August is the best of the summer/spring months to be in Florence.

The big perks to being here in August are the freedom and the space to walk the city without feeling claustrophobic due to the crowds. Leisurely strolling through the city without weaving in & out of the path of bike riders is another big plus.

Traditionally Florentines, as most Italians, leave the cities and are off to the the seaside, mountains or exotic destinations around the world. Cities that do not have a large influx of tourists are ghost towns. So what you have is Florence without most of its locals, which can be a negative if one likes to people watch and witness how the locals live. There are some Florentines still in town but the majority of folks that you will see are visitors to the city.  However with the extra space, tourists do not seem to be everywhere.  Below are some shots taken today and yesterday of the major piazzas :

Piazza Duomo

 

 

 

 

Piazza della Signoria

 

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Piazza della Repubblica

These spots are usually standing room only.

As many business owners also take vacations, some restaurants are closed.  Those that choose to be open therefore can get crowded but still one can always find great food in this city.  Just need to do a bit of research to check which of your favs are open.

The heat is the thing to beat in August and innovative restaurant owners have installed “water misters” under their outdoor umbrellas so their customers can continue to enjoy dining al fresco.

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Pizzeria I Ghibellini

In my neighborhood of Sant’Ambrogio many restaurants are open such as Trattoria Ceasarino (always on my fav list) and right in the middle of the indoor market, Da Rocco, for lunch. You will find the Florentines who choose to stay in town shopping at the market and the chance to people watch while eating lunch.

Mr. Rocco serving my guy.

Another favorite eatery of mine is Cafe Verrazzano.  During the year it a a busy busy place filled with locals.  Today I was able to find a free table and savor my fiori di zucca focaccia!

Cafe Verrazzano

There still are lines outside the Uffizzi and at the Academy to see David. The only time to have easy access to everything in Florence and enjoy only the locals is mid January to mid February, my absolute favorite time to have the city all to myself. I guess it’s a matter of which weather you can support: the heat and humidity of the summer or the damp and cold of winter.

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Line today at the Uffizzi.  It was moving at a quick pace, though…

As recently reported in Time magazine, (http://time.com/5349533/europe-against-tourists/) the overwhelming numbers of tourists filling many choice European travel destinations is a real problem. These cities bulging with tourists have been compared to Disneyland. Both share long waits and long lines to attractions.

Here you see a building in Piazza Duomo undergoing repair with an advertisement for yes, Disney….watch out for what you wish for Florence.

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Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, food, Observations in Florence, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

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