If you want to really experience a mid-size, elegant, well run Tuscan city, free of many tourists, go to Pistoia.
There are many things to love about Pistoia, a city that is about 19 miles northwest of Florence. The lack of many tourists is good enough reason to take the quick train ride from the Santa Maria Novella train station in Florence. Once you arrive, a leisurely walk will take you to one of the most charming piazzas in Italy. Many art treasures can be found within the old walls of this medieval city. The Duomo of Pistoia is the Cattedrale of San Zeno, which is Romanesque in style.
The Baptistry of St. John in the Piazza is Gothic and today is used for many exhibits and events.
The church of Sant’ Andrea contains the masterpiece pulpit by Givanni Pisano created in 1301.
Not to be missed is a visit to the historic hospital, Ospdale del Ceppo, which is one of the oldest hospitals in Italy. The Loggia was inspired by the Ospedale degli Innocenti in Florence and it’s Della Robbia ceramics. The facade in Pistoia is decorated with a ceramic glaze frieze by Santi Buglioni and it portrays the seven works of mercy, mixed with scenes of the Virtues. Try and arrange a tour of the interior and the archeological excavations below the hospital.
Marino Marini, a modern sculptor, born in Pistoia in 1901 and died in 1980 is a favorite son. Here in the beautiful Palazzo del Tau, built in the 1300’s is located the Museo Marino Marini filled with his treasures as well as a lovely garden cafe next door.
The Marino Marini Museum in Florence, located in the former church of San Pancrazio, is also a most beautiful setting for the work of Marini.
Here I am in the Piazza del Duomo in front of the Comune, or city hall and
with friends in the Comune’s hall standing in front of a sculpture of Marini.
The city is considered one of the best cities in Italy to raise children, no doubt partly due to it’s early childhood centers based on the Reggio Emilia philosophy and practice. I know of at least one American college, Smith, that has a professional connection to the early childhood centers there.
Beautiful ornamental trees and shrubs as well as garden plants can be found in the famous nurseries of Pistoia , which are considered some of the best in Italy.
The Pistoia outdoor market has something for everyone and is held on Wednesday and Saturday. It is quite large, covering the area of the Piazza del Duomo as well as connecting streets.
And now for my very favorite section of Pistoia: Piazza della Sala which for centuries has been the open-air food market of the city. Today, there are restaurants that line the square, allowing for outdoor seating, weather permitting. It is here that you can find the GREAT restaurant La BotteGaia! Here you can have traditional Tuscan food made with a modern twist. The food is always fresh and the best of the season. I have never had a bad meal here and have been coming for many years. It is my #1 in Tuscany! There are outdoor tables in the back of the restaurant that are in the Piazza alongside the famous Baptistry of St. John.
Around the corner, you can stop by their shop to bring back some wonderful packaged specialties of the area as well as great fresh cheese, cold cuts and sweets. It is called “I Sapore della BotteGaia” (The Tastes of the BotteGaia).
About 7 km southeast of Pistoia, is the small city of Agliana. It is here you can find the most exquisite chocolate shop of Roberto Catinari! AMAZING.
Great sights, good shopping, a wonderful restaurant and a stop at the Willy Wonka of Italy…It does not get any better. Shh, this is our secret!
























