November in Florence is a time to savor the harvest. Yes, a time to experience the culinary delights of the season.
We arrived 2 weeks ago just in time to get the last slices of schiacciata con l’uva: delicious focaccia with grapes. In September at the end of the vendemmia (wine harvest) the Canaiolo grape is the grape chosen both for its size and sweet taste, to be used in this speciality of Tuscany. Purists to tradition insist to use the grapes with seeds and as these grapes are tiny one just enjoys the crunch! Just about every cafe and bakery (bar and forno) take pride in their own version of this delicacy. If one gets to Florence at the beginning of the season a fun thing to do is make the rounds & every day try a different one to pick your favorite. The season is short and once it’s over (in early November) we start the wait till next year. Oh sweet November!
Also in November chestnuts are picked and when dried ground into chestnut flour. The flour is also known as farina dolce (sweet flour) as it is naturally sweet made from roasted and finely ground chestnuts. For those of you who are celiacs looking for a gluten free alternative, it is one to try. At the moment there are chestnut carts in town where you can buy a bag of roasted chestnuts but those in the know understand it is still a little too soon to find this year’s flour as they are now peeled and drying. Yes one can find the delicious chestnut cake called CASTAGNACCIO in many restaurants now but most probably the flour was frozen from last year’s batch. Castagnaccio is one of my very favorite desserts as it is high in complex carbs and very tasty. The fresh flour should be out any day now and I can’t wait. It is traditional to sprinkle walnuts, pine nuts and raisins over the batter before cooking. Generations of cooks have their secret ingredients and the owner of my neighborhood bar has promised me her recipe when she delivers the fresh flour to me in a few days. I’ve been sworn to secrecy…
Now to the liquid gold of Italy: Olive Oil. This is the season when olives are harvested, helped along by enthusiasts who take part in their collection. This is almost a cult like happening where folks of all ages join in the effort. Whether their own olive trees or that of a neighbor, the more the merrier for this party like atmosphere. Each region of Italy has their olive farms and orchards with olives ready to be picked in September to November depending on the climate of the region. After the olives are picked they are taken to an olive mill or frantoio and are pressed. The first cold pressed is the EVO – Extra Virgin Oil. Try tasting this olive oil on a freshly baked slice of bread or crudités. There is nothing like it and if the oil tickles your nose and throat: Eureka!!!
Schiacciata con’uva Castagnaccio new olive oil in 1 liter can and ready to taste
Not only are our senses of taste and smell evoked during a Florentine Autumn but checking out the new renovated theaters, the museum exhibitions and the fashion scene are something to see.
On November 4 one of the oldest cinema houses (100 years old) in Florence was reimagined and reopened after a period of renovation. The Odeon has been showing films in their original language since the eighties and many of the films were in English thus giving the ex pat community as well as American students a meeting place. One could go to the Odeon alone to watch a film and know that she would be met by so many friends and acquaintances. A community treasure. A beautiful art deco theater that needed a face lift. It has gone through a complete make-over and yet we are able to see it’s original beauty and architecture, including the mosaic tile floors and stunning columns. The landmark now contains a floating bookstore as well as the theater stage and screen. The balcony now has approximately 150 seats (the original theater on two floors had over 500). The Giunti bookstore is open all day and then for the 9:00 pm showing of the film, lights out and the show goes on. It will be a change not to have three shows a day and many of us might not love the idea of a 9:00 pm seating but my feeling is that this is something that could be changed if there is interest. The huge improvement is the addition of three-four bathrooms and an elevator as well as a cafe and bar open to the public all day. So we are excited to see the direction the Giunti Odeon takes and can’t wait for the many community events to be scheduled.
Presenting the Giunti-Odeon bookstore, cinema, restaurant & more…including an elevator!
It has been said that the movement of Art Deco is an extension of Art Nouveau. Currently at the Innocenti Museum has an exhibition of Alphonse Mucha who has been considered a master of the Art Nouveau movement. It has received lots of lots of buzz and promises to be a visual extravaganza. It will be featured in my next post.
There is quite a selection of contemporary art at this time in Florence along with temporary and permanent exhibits of Renaissance art. There is enough to appeal to the taste of everyone.
From left to right: Anish Kapoor. Unture Unreal, Palazzo Strozzi, till Feb. 4, 2024; Giovanni Stradano 1523-2023, Museo Palazzo Vecchio till Feb. 2024; Depero, Cavalcato fantastica, Palazzo Medeci Riccardi till January, 28, 2024; Alphonse Mucha, Museo Degli Innocenti till April 7, 2024
For your listening pleasure Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino never disappoints and currently Puccini’s La Boheme is playing Nov. 22, 25 and 29.
La Bohème, available dates on November 22, 25, 29. Resumption of the show staged in Sept. 2017 and Dec. 2019 & acclaimed by all…not to be missed.
Fashion and style trends in Florence are always a treat to see. This Fall I was surprised to see many Florentines wearing white jeans. As many of you know in the States white is not worn after labor day. I bet that is about to change. Also white and beige winter wear is on display in the shops.
If you have doubts about Florence in November I hope you have been convinced that it is a glorious month to come. Yes there can be rain, but the stifling heat is gone as well as many of the tourists. Come and enjoy the view.
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