“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…” Charles Dickens.
Here in Florence it really is the BEST of times with exciting improvements to our major city fresh food markets:
San Lorenzo Mercato Centrale
Mercato Sant’ Ambrogio
The architect Giuseppe Mengoni designed both buildings, Sant’Ambrogio in 1873 and Mercato Centrale in 1874. At this time Florence was the capital of Italy and many new projects were in progress such as the building of Piazza della Repubblica and the construction of the two major food markets. Mengoni at that time also designed the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan all prototypes for today’s “mall” concept but trust me, you will never find a food court to compare with these markets at your local malls!
In the past year both markets have undergone changes such as extending hours, offering discount cards and in the case of San Lorenzo, opening the “primo piano” or as we would call it the second floor of the building. More about that great addition later.
In the East part of the city, in Piazza Ghiberti near the church bearing its name, is my neighborhood market of Sant’ Ambrogio. It is smaller than the Mercato Centrale near the Church of San Lorenzo, however it has both indoor and outdoor food stalls or “bancarelle.”
San Lorenzo tends to attract more tourists while Sant’ Ambrogio is where you will see a majority of locals. There exists a wonderful sense of community between merchants and shoppers. It is common to hear conversations about family and politics. If you stop by Bar Cibreo for a morning coffee you are sure to find friends and neighbors.
The outdoor stalls feature fresh produce. some regional cheese and fresh flowers. There are also many great clothing and housewares stalls.
Here we have Stefania tending to some of the freshest fruits and veggies you can find. This stand has been in her family for years with her Mom Wilma in charge till she retired.
One of my favorite vegetables that I can not seem to find in the States is MangiaTutto, which are wide flat board beans that are so tender. Means “eat it all” and I do!
On alternating days, there are stands featuring cheese and olives and other specialties from the South of Italy.
Inside, La Botteghina della’ Augusta is our go to place for fresh pasta, cold cuts and some cheese. Here we have Ilaria, Augusta’s daughter. The Gnudi (Ricotta and cheese dumplings) are amazing. No need to make your own.
Another favorite is Luca the butcher. The polpettone (ready to cook meatloaf is excellent)
After a busy morning of shopping one can have a quick lunch insider the market at Rocco’s trattoria.
At the San Lorenzo market all food is inside. Just recently outside stands that sold leather goods, scarfs and souvenirs have been moved to give the whole area around the church and market a fresh look. It is wonderful to be able to have the open space.
On the “ground” floor are the food stands that are open , as in Sant’ Ambrogio, from 7 am to 2 pm daily. Both markets have additional hours one or two days a week.
There is more variety inside the Central market with some specialty shops selling mustarde, jams, packaged pasta, fresh flowers and candies.
Also at the ground floor of the Central Market lunch is available at Nerbone, a Florence institution. If you happen to be in Greve in Chianti you can find Nerbone also there. The adventurous can eat Trippa alla Fiorentina or tripe , which is their specialty. Count me out.
Now it is time to visit the newly renovated “primo piano” of the Cenrtal Market. This is a WOW!
It has been opened about 6 months and it is a very busy place. Luckily it is open daily from 10:00 to midnight. Here you can check out the fresh mozzarella and see how it is made.
The fresh baked bread is the best in Florence. (possibly, because it is salted!) Have a freshly made panino with prosciutto.
There is also a cooking school with classes open to students and to the public.
The BIG surprise now inside the Central Market is EATALY . When I heard that Eataly was coming to Florence I thought, why??? with all the great food and eateries here; but wait EATALY is a great addition to Florence! Here you can find Italian groceries, cook ware and fresh food from all over Italy. The prices are very fair and in some cases even cheaper than the high end specialty markets we have throughout the city. By the way, a larger Eataly with restaurants, as in New York, can be found on Via dei Martelli and it is FABULOUS!
So my recommendation to any tourist in Florence is to spend one day eating at the new Primo Piano. You can have antipasti at one stand, move not to a hot dish, have a secondi and then dessert. If you need a break go to visit the San Lorenzo church and the Medici Chapel. It will be one of your best days in Florence!
This sign really captures the essence of the food movement here: “Life is to short not to eat and drink well”
It really is the very BEST of times for a foodie in Florence!
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