Whenever I return to Florence I am faced with the decision as to which new opening I will first attend. The Instituto degli Innocenti has been a favorite of mine and when I learned it had opened its newly renovated museum on June 23 of this year my decision was made for my Autumn trip!
The original site of the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents/Foundling Hospital and Orphanage) continues to focus on the well being of children as the Istituto degli Innocenti.
Built, with the support of the Silk Guild of Florence, by Brunelleschi, it was completed in 1445. It soon became the model orphanage of Europe, not only welcoming abandoned children but providing outstanding health care as well as an education that included the arts.
The Museo degli Innocenti is part of the Institute and presents to visitors the history of the orphanage from its conception through 1900. This journey is a must for visitors to understand how forward thinking folks were back in the day.
Part of the complex that makes up Piazza SS. Annunziata, the Istituto flanks the beautiful Basillica Santissima Annunziata and is opposite a campus of the University of Florence. In the following photo, the University is to the left of the church and the Institute, not seen, would be on the right, under scaffolding at the moment as often is the case with many of the city’s structures. This symmetrical complex was designed by Brunelleschi, the same architect who built the Dome of the Duomo. 
The entrance:
Due to the work on the outside of the Loggia, all ten of the beautiful blue and white ceramic Andrea della Robbias “putti” (chubby child) wrapped in swaddling clothes on the upper part of the facade, can not be seen. Here at the very beginning of the Loggia you can see one above the museum entrance. So interesting that today the swaddling of newborns is back in practice.
Here is a piece from the museum’s beautiful art collection.
I recommend first starting your visit by going to the lower level to study the timeline and history of the orphanage and reviewing the past before going up to the art collection and then onto see the conference rooms and architecture of the Institute which highlights the present and future.
Again due to the reconstruction under the Loggia you will not be able to see the “Ruota” (turning wheel) where for many centuries abandoned infants were passed to waiting caregivers. It remained in service until 1875.
The practice of refuge for new born infants as we use it today at a fire house in California (modern day version of the Ruota)
What I found most moving were the reconstruction of the stories of 70 orphans, including artifacts, such as the charms that mothers would pin to their children or put on a string around their arms, so they could identify their child when and if they would be able to come back for them. In this photo you can see the half of a medal that came with the child the mother holding onto the other half.
I found this quote from 1528 really gives you a sense of the integrity of the Ospedale.
Moving onto the Art Collection located on the Third floor, there are approximately 80 moving works of art.
Below Botticelli’s “Madonna and Child with an Angel” demonstrating the philosophy of an abandoned child handed over to the Madonna who will care and love for this child.
Another moving piece “Madonna of the Innocenti” by an unknown Florentine painter:
Visiting the Ground Floor you see the courtyards where the children played and bathed:
bath tub:
Currently there are three day care/nurseries on the property. Also UNICEF’s Global Office of Research.
Today some rooms off the courtyards are used for conferences featuring topics that are about the welfare of children, their families and society as a whole. The Future and how to make it better.
The title of this Conference: To Migrate into Tuscany sponsored by the Center of Global Health.
The Instituto degli Innocenti continues to serve Florence with many education and outreach programs, helping to shape the future.
Do not forget to go up to the rooftop restaurant the Cafe Verona to enjoy the views and have a drink or meal.
I promise you will spend a morning, afternoon or full day that will move you.
* May, 2019: The just released film about the renovation of the Madonna of the Innocents at the Museo Degli Innocenti
Whether coming to Italy as a tourist or a returning visitor one needs to prepare a plan for understanding the language to enjoy the total benefit of the culture..
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