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Away from the Maddening Crowd…. especially during the Spring holidays

This year the Spring holidays of Easter, the April 25th Day of Liberation and the May 1, Day of the Worker, arrived within a 10 day period creating a vacation bonanza for Italians.  Add to the regular big crowds of Spring tourists from around the world and a recipe for major chaos and people traffic has been created.

Escaping the center of Florence and avoiding all major tourists attractions can be a solution, considering there are many lesser known but equally wonderful things to do in the surrounding hilltop towns.

Fiesole is a quick city bus ride (ATAF bus #7) three miles to the Northeast of Florence.  The town of Fiesole offers unparalleled views of Florence as well as Etruscan walls, Roman baths, and a spectacular Roman theater which hosts wonderful summer operas and concerts.

The exhibit,  Marcello Guasti, Giovanni Michelucci, and The History of the Monument of the Three Military Police (Il Monumento ai Tre Carabinieri: La Genesi Del Monumento: Slancio Verso L”Infinito)  coupled with a visit to the Park of Remembrance is well worth  your time.

The Monument was designed by Marcello Guasti  to commemorate the three military police who were killed in Fiesole by the Nazis on August 12, 1944. The day before Florence had been liberated the three young military police could not get to Florence from Fiesole as the roads were blocked, so they hid and when the Germans had found the barracks empty they threatened to kill ten civilians that were taken as hostages.  The three soldiers turned themselves in to save the civilians.  The city of Fiesole decided to commission a monument in their honor to be placed in the Park of Remembrance in 1964.

First going to the exhibit to see the evolution of the monument (explanations in both Italian and English) and then going to the Park, all within walking distance of each other is a moving and meaningful experience.

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The abstract monument is not typical of war memorials.  It is called “Slancio Verso L’Infinito”/”Lunging Towards Infinity” There can be many interpretations, as there are when one views art. The artist utilizes three pincer like tentacles from which a flame/fire emerges out of the middle. (The flame is the logo of the carabinieri.) The three are launched into infinity traveling over the valley of Florence.

The exhibit is in the Sala Costantini, Via Portigiani 9, Museo Civico Archeologico, Fiesole  https://guastifiesole.it/

Make a day of your visit and enjoy the delicious restaurants in Fiesole or on the road back to Florence.  A  favorite of mine is: Le Lune ristorante and vivaio (Le Lune restaurant and nursery) Via San Domenico, 36

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d13536075-Reviews-Le_Lune_ristorante-Florence_Tuscany.html

Here is a photo just across the road form Le Lune restaurant and nursery in San Domenico on the road to Fiesole:

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Enjoy the countryside, smell the flowers and leave the crowds behind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, food, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Stylin (Styling), Italians Do It Better!

Looking good or La Bella Figura is a way of life in Italy.  Milan is often at the top of the list when considering which city is the Fashion capital of the world. Interesting to note that the fashion boom got started here in Florence.  In 1952 in the White Room of the Pitti Palace was organized to hold it’s first International Fashion Show, with International press and buyers present.  Italian fashion was born. To the present, Pitti Uomo, Donna and Bambini are fashion events held throughout the year, and now at many other venues in Florence.  A time where International buyers and the press fill the city.

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The Sala Bianca/White Room of the Pitti Palace/Palazzo Pitti

However one does not need to attend one of the Pitti shows on the fashion circuit to see Italian fashion.  Just strolling on the streets of Florence one can easily see what is La Moda.

In years past I would often have fun trying to guess the color of the season just minutes after I arrived in the city.  Seasons of black, white, red, orange… Fashionistas wore the new colors and style like classy uniforms.

Today things have loosened up in the sense that I see more of a freedom of choices.  It is difficult today to pick out the color of the moment, yet anything that is worn is worn with a flair, with a nod to what is in Vogue. There for sure is an emphasis of colors that are “in”, especially by looking at merchandise hanging in the markets or in the beautifully designed shop windows or in the fashion magazines.  Last Fall, I saw lots of gold being displayed, and this Spring more of a yellow.

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Fall 2018, market stand in Florence

 

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Same Stand, Spring 2019

 

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Material shop, Florence

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Saturday insert “IO Donna” of Corriere Della Sera, April 6, 2019

Fashion and design are everywhere, yet I’m witnessing a new freedom of choices. Folks do not seem to be slaves of the latest trend and color. It’s their choice. There is a new confidence in the air.

Statements continue to be made and La Bella Figura is alive and well. It’s an attitude; a way of moving , a way of being. Italians just seem to wear it better. Whether, the tying or wrapping of a scarf or the number of bracelets you wear, it’s done with, well a panache.

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I’m convinced that if an Italian wore potato sacks they would do it with flair and look great. Go ahead have fun and see if you can pick out the tourists form the natives.  Here’s a hint, if you see a woman on a bike, wearing stiletto heels, talking on her cell phone in a great outfit, without a helmet, that’s a Florentine.  La Bella Figura reigns.

 

 

 

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August in Florence: Some Like it Hot

If you don’t mind the possible dog days of summer, August is the best of the summer/spring months to be in Florence.

The big perks to being here in August are the freedom and the space to walk the city without feeling claustrophobic due to the crowds. Leisurely strolling through the city without weaving in & out of the path of bike riders is another big plus.

Traditionally Florentines, as most Italians, leave the cities and are off to the the seaside, mountains or exotic destinations around the world. Cities that do not have a large influx of tourists are ghost towns. So what you have is Florence without most of its locals, which can be a negative if one likes to people watch and witness how the locals live. There are some Florentines still in town but the majority of folks that you will see are visitors to the city.  However with the extra space, tourists do not seem to be everywhere.  Below are some shots taken today and yesterday of the major piazzas :

Piazza Duomo

 

 

 

 

Piazza della Signoria

 

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Piazza della Repubblica

These spots are usually standing room only.

As many business owners also take vacations, some restaurants are closed.  Those that choose to be open therefore can get crowded but still one can always find great food in this city.  Just need to do a bit of research to check which of your favs are open.

The heat is the thing to beat in August and innovative restaurant owners have installed “water misters” under their outdoor umbrellas so their customers can continue to enjoy dining al fresco.

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Pizzeria I Ghibellini

In my neighborhood of Sant’Ambrogio many restaurants are open such as Trattoria Ceasarino (always on my fav list) and right in the middle of the indoor market, Da Rocco, for lunch. You will find the Florentines who choose to stay in town shopping at the market and the chance to people watch while eating lunch.

Mr. Rocco serving my guy.

Another favorite eatery of mine is Cafe Verrazzano.  During the year it a a busy busy place filled with locals.  Today I was able to find a free table and savor my fiori di zucca focaccia!

Cafe Verrazzano

There still are lines outside the Uffizzi and at the Academy to see David. The only time to have easy access to everything in Florence and enjoy only the locals is mid January to mid February, my absolute favorite time to have the city all to myself. I guess it’s a matter of which weather you can support: the heat and humidity of the summer or the damp and cold of winter.

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Line today at the Uffizzi.  It was moving at a quick pace, though…

As recently reported in Time magazine, (http://time.com/5349533/europe-against-tourists/) the overwhelming numbers of tourists filling many choice European travel destinations is a real problem. These cities bulging with tourists have been compared to Disneyland. Both share long waits and long lines to attractions.

Here you see a building in Piazza Duomo undergoing repair with an advertisement for yes, Disney….watch out for what you wish for Florence.

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Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, food, Observations in Florence, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

A Glimpse of the Florentine Spring

The Florentine Spring of 2018 may be recorded as one of the shortest in recent history.  A very cold and wet winter sparked what has been an early start to summer. One was fortunate to experience some magnificent days of this season of the soul if at the right place at the right time.

An explosion of color bathed the city. Here we have the wisteria, or glicine path at Villa Bardini:

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And wild flowers carpeted the hills:

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Roses bloomed early in the season, a sign of the early summer to come:

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Trips to the local markets provided more than food for thought:

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Baccelli, or Fava beans are one of the signs of Spring here, and creating a salad using the fresh beans from the pod, pears and pecorino cheese drizzled with olive oil is a spring ritual, that will have you returning for more.

Artichokes or carciofi:

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Fried, steamed with herbs, or eaten raw, thinly sliced with slithers of Parmesan cheese, these artichokes are like none other you have tasted anywhere else on the planet!

Eggplants provide inspiration for many dishes throughout spring and summer:

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And looking at the flowers on the zucchini are a real sign that summer has indeed arrived:ELkOPNkUTBa8U2tq6D22XQ

and once you see “Fiori di zucca fritti” or fried zucchini flowers on the menu you know it’s time for the beach!!!

Happy Summer everyone!

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The Elections are coming the Elections are Coming…Italian Style!

Often friends and acquaintances ask me questions about Italian politics. Now as the Italian Elections are set to take place on March 4, it seems to be the topic du jour.

It may well take me a lifetime to try and understand the electoral process and its ramifications in Italy.  To understand why people make their choices one needs to get into the psyche of a nation, no matter where.

The following is a simple overview of what I do know and some of my observations.

The ballot that is sent to Italians who can vote and live in the States has nine (yes 9!) parties listed. There are many more parties listed on ballots in Italy as if more are needed! Below a sample of the ballot for House of Representatives. You usually do not see names of candidates; in Italy you vote for the party.  It often is not clear who will lead their party till after it is chosen.

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The Democratic Party or PD is the party in power now and has been for five years, with Prime Minister Paolo Gentiloni as the head replacing Matteo Renzi who was the the PM till late 2016.

You may recognize a familiar name on the coalition symbol. The League, formerly known as Lega Nord, is a combination of three parties: Forza Italia, whose spokesperson is Silvio Berlusconi, who had been a three time prime minister in the recent past but can not attend parliament at the moment due to a criminal conviction. Confused yet…?  It will be interesting to see which of the three names on the ballot will lead the party if they get the majority.

Moving on to the Five Star Movement, Movimento 5 Stelle, which was founded by comedian Beppe Grillo. He has decided he will not run the party if it wins the majority.

The three parties that I have listed are the three that seem to be  the front-runners.

“Free Flights to Italy” is not a front runner! Anyone can register a party.

I do have opinions but will try not to express those views in this post, I will however venture to express the following observations (opinions?!).

All elections in all countries need to be taken very seriously and citizens need to vote.  Sounds fundamental?  In the United States, approximately 50% of its citizens vote.  While in Italy over 75% of the population vote. However, due to the large number of parties represented, in spite of the turnout, often no party takes the majority and a coalition has to be formed. With no party dominating, the promise for change is put on the back burner.  In the past this has been the main reason why governments do not last the five year term allowed by the Constitution.  That is why Italy has had so many governments since 1945, when it was still a monarchy.

These last few years has seen a world wide populist movement, which many attribute to the huge immigration numbers caused by war, and economic crisis resulting in unemployment. Many feel disenfranchised. Yet, change is slow to come and when there may be an upswing to the standard of living, a change in government takes place and often things slide backwards. A wave of fear has gripped voters resulting in a cry for solutions.  Often, people who react from fear make drastic choices and take chances without thinking through long term consequences. We have seen in many nations, parties and/or candidates, who are to the extreme left or right take the stage. What we are seeing results in division among the nation’s population.  One side vs. the other with not much accomplished, except resentments or worse.

When making choices some important questions may need to be asked. Is the candidate or the party making promises he/she can keep? Are solutions being presented or are we hearing criticisms of each other without clear goals and objectives? What about experience and competence? How has that been measured in the past, for it really does count.  Last but not least, ethics.  Is the dialogue respectful, or is it all name calling and bullying…

I am hoping that citizens of all countries as, they take their voting responsibility in hand, look at world history (and current events) and the mistakes that have resulted from poor choices and give serious thought to their vote. Our world’s future counts on it.

 

 

 

 

 

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Florentine Street Shrines, Tabernacles & Moments to Reflect

Today seems like an appropriate time to focus on reflection.  We often take stock at the beginning of a new year and pause to consider the past year as well as thoughts for the new.

These moments of pause can happen serendipitously when one is walking alone on the streets of Florence and discovers an outside shrine.

In Florence, as in all of Italy, beautiful shrines and tabernacles can be found on buildings in most neighborhoods: Street Art.

Often to be found in unexpected places:IMG_4133

Originally built by the early Romans to honor their pagan gods and ask for their protection, outdoor shrines became common place. With the arrival of Christianity, cities chose their patron saints and dedicated  shrines to them.  The Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist take top billing in Florence.

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So during the course of a walk one can find themselves gazing upon an image that provokes emotion and thought.

Attention and care are evident by the display of flowers and even notes of petition.

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The energy can be contagious and you may find yourself in a mediative breath. Your own petitions may come to mind.

No matter what your religion or if any, take a moment to pause and reflect.  It can be a welcome moment in a day full of sight seeing and other activities. For me it is a slow down moment. A moment to often think of loved ones or just feel the gratitude of being in such a special place.

Allow me to wish all a very Happy New Year full of joy, peace, love and travel!

I dedicate this post to my brother Robert who recently passed away.  Here we are in 2016 in the town of Panzano in Chianti.

 

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The Good the Bad and the Ugly: Reflections of a Frequent Traveler to Florence

In the more than four years that I have been posting on this blog, I have sung the praises of Firenze.  It is a city that fills me with passion and emotion and is a city that I love.

However, on this return visit, I noticed that while I felt the rush of positive emotions I was quicker than usual to note the negative. This really is a good sign as it must mean I am becoming a local and feel at home!  After all, looking at our home cities with a critical eye is part of the process that drives improvement.

So bear with me as I list some of the ups and downs of life in Florence that I have encountered this Fall.

The GOOD:

Florence is a small city compared to the cosmopolitan cities of a London, New York or Paris, yet it offers top museums, exhibits and opera and all within walking distance. Within days of our arrival we were able to purchase tickets to the opera Tosca at the Opera of Florence. The city also has done a great job of making seats more accessible to all by offering a range of ticket prices and opportunities for discounts. A very GOOD thing.

Here folks arrive and begin to take their seats in this beautiful contemporary venue.

 

One of the first museums I visit is the Palazzo Strozzi because their biannual exhibits are top notch.  This Fall the Strozzi is focusing on the art of  The Cinquecento in Florence. From Michelangelo and Pontormo to Giambologna. Having these masterpieces under one roof and being able to follow the timeline  is a treat.  The Strozzi Musuem is for sure a GOOD thing.

Not far from the Strozzi is the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum which shows very unusual and worthy exhibits, Yes the same shoe Ferragamo. The title of the show is “1927  the Return to Italy”. It highlights the return to Italy of the shoe designer after spending 12 years in the States. We are literally passengers on the cruise ship and are presented with the artistic expression of the time in the years before Fascism.   Italian design of that decade is the focus.

 

Seeing all the innovative art, culture and design of that era confirmed my belief that Italy has been a leader in these areas since the pre Renaissance right up to the present. The city of Florence continues to be a showcase for the arts. A very GOOD thing.

It is hard to deny that Florence has some of the best vistas in the world.  Caching a sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo is a must in any season as well as Piazza della Signoria or any of the other beautiful piazzas in Florence.

 

(and now for the BAD and the UGLY…)

Did I say Piazza della Signoria? Well it can be your call, GOOD or UGLY (hint many Florentines refer to this temporary work of art as “La Diviana Cacata”).

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Speaking of “cacca”  as anyone who does lots of walking in the city knows one needs to look down to be careful of where they step.  Many dog owners do not pick up after their dogs and do not even use the “Curb”. A BAD thing for sure, however I was encouraged by this warning that one sees on various streets:

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Translation: Animal, When you do not pick up…The animal is not your dog, its you! The ticket is from 160 euro.

A GOOD thing! However the city needs to work on getting the “Vigili Urbani” organized and on the streets so they can hand out those fines.

Which brings me to the another very unfortunate and ugly fact, the lack of of the traffic police (Vigili) during traffic jams. Construction of another tram for this city is underway, a GOOD thing, however many streets are blocked especially around the train station. It has become a nightmare for both drivers and bus riders as well as anyone daring to drive or take a taxi.  Traffic can be blocked for hours and there is little or no supervision of traffic, especially on a Sunday evening.  Guess everyone thinks it is their day of rest!

Graffiti on the walls of the city buildings is also another horror. Yup, more of the BAD and the UGLY.

I will say I am beginning to notice a little less graffiti and have learned that the city of Florence has set up an association “The Angels of Beauty” to help clean up the grafitti as well as raise awareness. A GOOD thing.

I have not gone into cultural differences and sense of territory or space. An exanple: when one is walking on these tiny sidewalks, many locals don’t move; meaning if they are standing in a group chatting and blocking your path or heading at you at full speed, with or without an umbrella, moving to the side or saying excuse me does not happen…but I will save the cultural differences (or just indifference) for another post.

Believe me the GOOD (the food, the food!) and the BEAUTIFUL out number the BAD and the UGLY, but at times I wonder if Florence could use some help from Clint Eastwood…

 

 

 

 

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

A cup of coffee/una tazza di caffè

When I heard that Starbucks was planning to open it’s first shop in Milan, my first thought was WHY?

Italians have perfected the art of the ritual of having a caffè. Whether it is the mid-morning break or the end of the lunch meal, folks here are serious about their coffee. In fact, most have their go-to Bar where they have a relationship with the barista.

The Bar d’Azeglio is our lunch spot and so Andrea prepares our cups daily.  However I’ve been known to grab a quick mid morning breakfast at Robiglio or the delicious pastry shop Dolci e Dolcezze.

Each bar carries a specific brand. Our favorite is Caffè Piansa , which we also purchase to brew our early morning coffee at home. Torrefazione Piansa is a small company located just outside of Florence, so the beans are toasted locally.

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Illy Espresso is another great brand.

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In the Illy cup is an espresso macchiato, with a small amount of hot foamed milk. One can also request cold milk.

The choices for your coffee are endless.

Short or corto;  Caffe lungo, which contains more caffeine; macchiato caldo, my favorite, with a small amount of hot foamed milk; macchiato freddo, which comes with a samll pot of cold milk for you to add to your coffee; caffe corretto, to which a small amount of hard liquor is added, and the list goes on….

Here we have a cappuccino and it really works best with a cornetto (the Italian version of a croissant) or a lovely budino de riso (rice pudding pastry) or a fruit pastry such as the apple with my cappucino at Dolce e Dolcezza:

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It’s also good to remember that having a coffee at the counter can be a third to a half the price of sitting at a table!

Which brings us back to the question of Starbucks. In a large city such as Milan or Rome or any other Italian city where there are lots of tourists and/or students the thought of being able to sit down at a table with your computer and enjoy free wifi can be appealing.  Also we Americans have perfected the art of coffee to-go which is available here,  but the idea of an espresso in a styrofoam, cup well, I’ll leave you to ponder that idea!

*For your enjoyment I’m attaching a link to a song about caffe by the late, great  Neapolitan singer Pino Daniele. He is singing in the dialect of Naples and Roberto Benigni is featured. At that time smoking was allowed in restaurants. so just try and smile through the smoke filled clip.  The action will start after the 8 second film commercial.

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A Perfect Sunday in Florence. Buona Domenica a tutti!

Having arrived in Florence after a four month absence and fully jumping into the Florentine rhythm, happily visiting friends and trying out the new eateries, it took the third Sunday to decide to just chill and see how this day would unfold.

Got to the Piazza Santa Maria Novella and decided to check out the visiting exhibit on early twentieth century Estonian Paintings, Visions From the North, at the Novecento Museum which is right on the piazza. I was very motivated as a lover of impressionism and the fact that this Sunday was “Sunday at the Museum” allowing residents free entry into state museums!IMG_5555

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Here are some of my favorites:

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The Enn Kunila collection is one of the largest private collections of contemporary northeastern European paintings. Great to see it in this small lovely museum.

As I walked from the museum I decided to explore what was new on the small street via della Spada. What did I find? A great boutique: Ottod’Ame. It means 8 women and the clothing is designed and made in Florence.  There is a store in Milan and soon will be another in Lucca. I loved the clothing and did buy an outfit!

Continuing on my walk home I could not resist stopping to get a little pre-lunch snack at Procacci on Via de’ Tornabuoni. Established in 1885, it is still one of the best spots to hop in and enjoy a glass of Antinori wine and a little  fresh sweet roll buttered with something wonderful and  stuffed with salmon, patè and/or many other great gourmet combinations.  These little gems are called panini tartufatti and once you try them you will be craving them.

Almost home, passing Piazza D’Azeglia with it’s first signs of Spring

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I count my blessings as I anticipate the delicious Sunday lunch my darling has cooked for us!

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Observations in Florence, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

A Night at the Museum with Ai Weiwei at Palazzo Strozzi in Florence

Walking in the center of Florence today you cannot miss the facade of the Palazzo Strozzi.

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Before entering the building Ai Weiwei’s installation begins to signal that you are about to see an exhibit unlike any that has been housed in this historic venue. The contemporary Chinese artist and activist has been allowed use of the entire building and museum, which is a first in its history. He is considered the most famous living artist in China, and many think the world.

This is an exhibit that requires you to look beyond the objects that he uses, into their metaphorical meaning. These are not just rubber life boats that are hung on the Strozzi but rather a loud statement of the plight of immigrants today.

His statements, which are enlarged and displayed in the lower level  Strozzina gallery are provocative.

His statement,”Everything is art. Everything is political” gives us a deeper meaning into the title of his exhibit: Libero/Free.

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950 bikes are “stacked” symbolizing the freedom that allows the Chinese people to be mobile; the freedom to move about.

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Some of the display rooms are covered in wallpaper designed by Weiwei. In the photo of a section of the wallpaper you see that he has made a statement against censorship. Note the surveillance cameras with the Twitter symbol in the middle.

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“If we didn’t have this technology, I would be the same as everyone else I couldn’t really amplify my voice”

A most chilling installation is”The Snake Bag”, created after the 2008 Sichuan earthquake, where thousands lost their lives.  360 identical backpacks are stitched together in memory of the school children lost there. (a strong protest against the Chinese government, which tried to cover up the scandal of unsafely constructed buildings.)

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How is this food for thought: He Xie, river crabs, created in 2011. As a response to the government destroying his art studio Ai Weiwei invited guests to a banquet where he served river crabs, the symbol of tyranny. This installation is made up of hundreds of porcelain river crabs

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Ai Weiwei also revisits the Italian Renaissance paying homage to the political dissidents of that era, Dante, Savonarola, Galileo and Filippo Strozzi. The Palazzo was built by Strozzi after he returned. He wanted to build a bigger palace to show them!

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Below, Dante designed in Legos!

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The artist, breaking a 2,000 year old Han dynasty urn rendered in legos:

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Personally, to have seen this exhibit in a time of political turmoil in my own country was sobering, yet hopeful.

The exhibit is on untill January 22, 2017.

If in Florence do not miss it.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | 4 Comments

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