Observations in Florence

A little bit of this and a little bit of that…Un po’ di questo e un po’ di quello!

Nothing beats being able to go with the flow and doing things spontaneously if at all possible. Visit some favorite restaurants, discover new ones, go to outdoor markets, stop in at free exhibits, attend a concert buying tickets at box office last minute, and just take the time to observe cultural differences while people-watching.

Take a walk in the hills of Florence on a beautiful day. I recommend the walk from Piazzale Michelangelo then climbing up to the Basilica di San Miniato next up to Forte di Belvedere, down to the neighborhood of San Niccoló.

Walking sticks sure do come in handy!

At Piazzale I met Victoire who creates mosaic jewelry in the Florentine style that can be so difficult to find these days. I remember collecting picture frames and pill boxes years ago. Mosaico Bizantino articles can make great gifts.

Worth a stop. Her work is beautiful.

In Florence there are monthly outdoor markets. On the third Sunday of every month the organic market at Santa Spirito has aa selection of spices, herbs, delicious jams, cheese etc. as well as handmade hats, scarfs, toys and more. Quality stuff.

Just about every square has something going on, any day of the week, and if its an arts and crafts (artesan) fair & you happen to pass one do check it out. Here at Piazza Dei Ciompi is one I was lucky enough to find at sundown.

While walking through the Piazza della Signoria, after spending time gazing in awe at the recently renovated Neptune Fountain, I noticed a “free entry exhibit” in the Palazzo Vecchio (the working City Hall of Florence). Any excuse will do to visit this historic building. It is an exhibit by a contemporary artist that centered around famous women in Florence from the Renaissance to modern times. Mixed media and very interesting.

As you wander around the city you’ll will observe that sidewalks can be very narrow as their adjacent streets. Problem is Italians like to converse in small groups on the sidewalks & often do not move (or are aware) that folks need to pass. Often one has to step into the street to pass them (or trying saying “mi scusi”, which has its own hazards. Watch out for the bike riders and be sure to look both ways before stepping into the street. Actually cars are known to be parked and/or moving on sidewalks as well. We can call this Italian “creative” free thinking or cultural differences???

Sunday morning Oct. 9, 2023 concert at Fondazione Zeffirelli

The Museum Zeffirelli within the complex contains his body of work. He was a master not only of film, but staging operas and designing sets. He was and still is a favorite son of the city.

Next post will feature current favorite restaurants and fashion trend. Happy travels and a presto!

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence | 8 Comments

Al Rientro a Firenze/ Upon re-entering Florence…

After an absence of many months it takes me a week or so to get in sync with the local customs & surroundings to develop my Florentine routine. For those of you coming for the first time or coming again and again (UNDERSTANDABLE!), allow me to share my strategies for getting the most of a visit.

Walking through the city to check out what is new and/or which of your favorite stores or restaurants are still open helps to reacquaint you with the city.

Visiting neighborhood essential shops such as favorite food market stands or the local pharmacy to greet the shop owners and hear the wonderful phrase, “ben tornata”, (welcome back) gives you a warm fuzzy feel.

Whether you are visiting for a few days, weeks or months obtaining a copy of the English-speaking news magazine, The Florentine, will keep you informed as to the latest cultural happenings in the city. http://www.theflorentine.net as well as the monthly magazine Firenze Spettacolo. I also make a habit of stopping at the local newsstand, “edicola” every Saturday to pick up the newspaper Corriere Della Sera which contains the Saturday magazine “Io Donna”. Not only does it cover some of the cultural events in some of the major cities of Italy, It is all about the fashion “La moda” and we want to be up to the latest trends so we can make the most of our shopping trips. 😉

Once I have my overview and I am on italian time I am ready to go experience La Dolce Vita!

On these first walks through the city you can’t help noticing the onslaught of tourists…making up for lost time during the height of the pandemic. One soon discovers the less traveled side streets to get around.

You will be tempted to walk into every store you pass as the window displays are so artfully done.

local flower shop

The surprise of catching outdoor installations confirming the fact that Florence itself is an outdoor museum. Love to see the mixing of contemporary art in the middle of all the Renaissance architecture.

At the San Lorenzo basilica complex there is a temporary outdoor exhibit on show until October 31 created by the artist Emanuele Gianelli. These resin, hand painted statues are creating quite a stir. It is a not to be missed photo op. The white statue, called Mr. Arbitrium, looks as if he is holding up the wall of the church or doing a stretch before he takes a run.

In the cloister of the complex the artist’s work, The Suspended, “I Sospesi” features resin figures hanging from their ankles. There are many interpretations of the the meaning including the a possible statement of the condition of todays society…at any rate food for thought.

I was motivated to visit the contemporary museum Novecento in Piazza Santa Maria Novella after viewing the San Lorenzo exhibit. As some of you might recall the last post I wrote during my last visit to Florence featured the Novecento. One of the current exhibits highlights the British artist Tony Cragg and his sculptures. Another show not to be missed and it’s on till Jan. 15, 2023.

As we navigated new neighborhoods we came across the restaurant Gervis. In ten days we have been there twice. A great find. https://gervis-bistro.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral

Back room at Gervis

Do plan your adventure around Florence by doing a bit of scouting. It will serve you well and make your visit all the more meaningful. Happy Travels and “A Presto”.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, food, Observations in Florence | Tags: , | 8 Comments

Jenny Saville Dominates the Museum Scene in Florence

Currently drawings and paintings from the British contemporary artist Jenny Saville are in exhibit at five museums in Florence. It’s the HAPPENING of the art scene here. Her art is juxtaposed next to the Renaissance masters, comparing and contrasting the theme of motherhood as well as nudes and female faces. She is the only “She” artist represented in the room; Renaissance art just got real! The comparisons ties the art of the Masters to one of our greatest living artists. Each work from both the Masters and Saville, side by side, has added to their depth and meaning. This is a journey not to be missed.

If you are in Florence this exhibit will continue through February 20, 2021. My suggestion is to start in the Museo Novecento to get an appreciation of Saville and her figurative and portrait art. Do not discard your ticket for it will be useful in the other four museums that are part of this expansive exhibition. This link will provide you with the hours, days and discounted prices of the Museums. http://www.museonovecento.it/en/jenny-saville-orari-e-biglietti-dei-musei-coinvolti-nella-mostra/

Here at the Novecento, inside the former church of the Spedale, is the portrait of Rosetta ll, a blind woman. The setting for this work is quite special as when looking through the door you, as well as Rosetta can gaze across the Piazza Santa Maria Novella into the Basilica SMN, to glimpse of Giotto’s wooden crucifix hanging in Nave when the church door of the Basilica is open.

At the Novecento there are 70 drawings and paintings of the artist, with 30 more, spread across the other four venues.

Once completing your visit to the Novecento, visit the other four museums in any order.

The Museo degli Innocenti, was next on my journey. Here with Botticelli, Luca Della Robbia, Saville shows us her motherhood. So fitting to see these in the former Orphanage of the Innocents.

At the Casa Buonarotti the theme of motherhood continues including the Jenny Saville’s study for Pieta V as well as Mother and Child drawings from Michelangelo and Saville

In the Salone dei Cinquecento located in Palazzo Vecchio, Saville’s “Fulcrum” is displayed amid sculptures of the Renaissance and the great murals of Vasari’s massive men in battle. In Fulcrum we see a mountain of naked women.

The last visit on my Saville journey was to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Beside Michelangelo’s marble Pieta, a larger than life drawing of Saville’s family in the same entwined pose.

My hope is that this expansive and important exhibit will be extended past February 20 so visitors to Florence in the Spring can view it. Also important to remember that these five museums should be on the top of anyone’s list of attractions when coming to Florence. There are impressive works of art in the permanent collections of all these museums. You will be moved.

Truly, one does not need to wait on a line for hours (the Uffizi and Academia) to see GREAT museums in Florence. My all time favorites here are, the Innocenti and the Duomo. You can view my past posts on the Museo degli Innocenti https://wordpress.com/post/fondlyfromflorence.com/1018 and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo https://wordpress.com/post/fondlyfromflorence.com/615

Happy travels!

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

“I’m ill” (Sto male). Where to get help when ill in Florence

At this moment in time the world is close to a pandemic level of the Coronavirus virus. Italy is experiencing (COVID-19) with an alarming number of cases.  Updates on the crisis are released daily.

This brings up the topic of tourists, students and/or visitors to Florence who may experience illness of all types when traveling.

Often I get questions from friends who are embarking upon a trip to Italy as to what can they do if they become ill while there…

Full disclosure, I’m not in Florence as I write due to the travel restrictions imposed by both the US and Italy.  However I can share with you some suggestions as to what to do if medical help is needed while on a visit.

As a reassurance to the quality of health care in Italy, please note that Italy is often ranked in the top 10 countries world wide for best healthcare.  In 2019 has been ranked number 2, (on the same list the US ranked number 37).

http://worldpopulationreview.com/countries/best-healthcare-in-the-world/

Excellent medical assistance is readily available all 24/7.

In an emergency, you get yourself to a hospital either with a taxi or in severe situations, call an ambulance (Know the address where you are staying or where the emergency occurred): dial 118. If you live in the center of Florence you will be taken to Santa Maria Nuova, address: Piazza S. Maria Nuova 1: Tel. 055-27581
This is the not only a beautiful historic hospital but also a good hospital.

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A bit further from the center of the city is Careggi Hospital (Ospedale Careggi). It is the university hospital and considered the best in Florence.  Usually if in an ambulance you will be taken to the closest hospital.

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Careggi University Hospital, University of Florence

Largo Brambilla 3

50134, Florence, Italy

055 794 111; 055 794 7790

 

The Meyer hospital is the University of Florence pediatric hospital located in Careggi at Viale Pieraccini 24 50139 Firenze Italy – Phone 055 56621

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*Note that during this current health crisis re: Cornovirus (COVID-19), a triage system is in effect. Folks will be screened before entering the emergency room in an outdoor tent like structure on the hospital property.

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These hospitals are well staffed and offer excellent care.

The Misericordia, is a charitable institution founded in 1244  to care for the sick.  Over the centuries it has evolved to one of the most important  health organizations in Italy.  In Florence it supplies the majority of ambulance transportation, staffed by volunteers. Also doctors who are in private practice as well as public, may donate their services  an average of one day a week, to offer care for office visits at a minimum price.  These days about 42 euros, which covers administrative fees. On the site’s website you can also book appointments with specialists  who have their full resume posted.  We have often used their services and have been most satisfied. These are the very same well qualified doctors who work in the best hospitals in Florence. Appointments are much easier to get then waiting  weeks to see specialists in their offices. The Misericordia has offices in various neighborhoods of Florence, including the main office near the Duomo and close to the historic Museum of the Misericordia.

https://www.misericordia.firenze.it

If you are a resident in Florence you can belong to the public healthcare system and find a general physician in your neighborhood.  When we lived in Florence full time we were able to see our doctor usually the next day and in some cases have the doctor make a home visit.  These general practitioners can offer services to those who are not in the system and you would be charged for the visit.  To get names of doctors in the area you are staying, go to your local pharmacy to get some recommendations.   The local farmacia is an important resource in Italy.  Staffed with well trained pharmacists who also can preform such services as taking a simple blood test which gives you results within ten minutes. Their recommendations for medications are very accurate and some meds can be purchased without a doctor’s prescription,

The American Consulate offers a list of practitioners who speak in English as well as other medical resources.

 

The American Consulate located at Lungarno Vespucci, 38
Phone: (+39) 055.266.951 has lists of doctors who speak English as well as other medical resources.

U.S. Consulate General Florence

Most hospitals have a “guardia medica” which is a form of urgent care. It isn’t the emergency room, and it usually is reserved for times when a person’s regular physician is not available through normal business hours. Many tourists as well as residents use this service. Also an excellent system.

 

You can rest assured if in Italy there are many ways to get excellent assistance.

In this time of world concern about COVID_19,  I wish you safety and strength.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stylin (Styling), Italians Do It Better!

Looking good or La Bella Figura is a way of life in Italy.  Milan is often at the top of the list when considering which city is the Fashion capital of the world. Interesting to note that the fashion boom got started here in Florence.  In 1952 in the White Room of the Pitti Palace was organized to hold it’s first International Fashion Show, with International press and buyers present.  Italian fashion was born. To the present, Pitti Uomo, Donna and Bambini are fashion events held throughout the year, and now at many other venues in Florence.  A time where International buyers and the press fill the city.

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The Sala Bianca/White Room of the Pitti Palace/Palazzo Pitti

However one does not need to attend one of the Pitti shows on the fashion circuit to see Italian fashion.  Just strolling on the streets of Florence one can easily see what is La Moda.

In years past I would often have fun trying to guess the color of the season just minutes after I arrived in the city.  Seasons of black, white, red, orange… Fashionistas wore the new colors and style like classy uniforms.

Today things have loosened up in the sense that I see more of a freedom of choices.  It is difficult today to pick out the color of the moment, yet anything that is worn is worn with a flair, with a nod to what is in Vogue. There for sure is an emphasis of colors that are “in”, especially by looking at merchandise hanging in the markets or in the beautifully designed shop windows or in the fashion magazines.  Last Fall, I saw lots of gold being displayed, and this Spring more of a yellow.

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Fall 2018, market stand in Florence

 

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Same Stand, Spring 2019

 

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Material shop, Florence

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Saturday insert “IO Donna” of Corriere Della Sera, April 6, 2019

Fashion and design are everywhere, yet I’m witnessing a new freedom of choices. Folks do not seem to be slaves of the latest trend and color. It’s their choice. There is a new confidence in the air.

Statements continue to be made and La Bella Figura is alive and well. It’s an attitude; a way of moving , a way of being. Italians just seem to wear it better. Whether, the tying or wrapping of a scarf or the number of bracelets you wear, it’s done with, well a panache.

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I’m convinced that if an Italian wore potato sacks they would do it with flair and look great. Go ahead have fun and see if you can pick out the tourists form the natives.  Here’s a hint, if you see a woman on a bike, wearing stiletto heels, talking on her cell phone in a great outfit, without a helmet, that’s a Florentine.  La Bella Figura reigns.

 

 

 

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August in Florence: Some Like it Hot

If you don’t mind the possible dog days of summer, August is the best of the summer/spring months to be in Florence.

The big perks to being here in August are the freedom and the space to walk the city without feeling claustrophobic due to the crowds. Leisurely strolling through the city without weaving in & out of the path of bike riders is another big plus.

Traditionally Florentines, as most Italians, leave the cities and are off to the the seaside, mountains or exotic destinations around the world. Cities that do not have a large influx of tourists are ghost towns. So what you have is Florence without most of its locals, which can be a negative if one likes to people watch and witness how the locals live. There are some Florentines still in town but the majority of folks that you will see are visitors to the city.  However with the extra space, tourists do not seem to be everywhere.  Below are some shots taken today and yesterday of the major piazzas :

Piazza Duomo

 

 

 

 

Piazza della Signoria

 

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Piazza della Repubblica

These spots are usually standing room only.

As many business owners also take vacations, some restaurants are closed.  Those that choose to be open therefore can get crowded but still one can always find great food in this city.  Just need to do a bit of research to check which of your favs are open.

The heat is the thing to beat in August and innovative restaurant owners have installed “water misters” under their outdoor umbrellas so their customers can continue to enjoy dining al fresco.

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Pizzeria I Ghibellini

In my neighborhood of Sant’Ambrogio many restaurants are open such as Trattoria Ceasarino (always on my fav list) and right in the middle of the indoor market, Da Rocco, for lunch. You will find the Florentines who choose to stay in town shopping at the market and the chance to people watch while eating lunch.

Mr. Rocco serving my guy.

Another favorite eatery of mine is Cafe Verrazzano.  During the year it a a busy busy place filled with locals.  Today I was able to find a free table and savor my fiori di zucca focaccia!

Cafe Verrazzano

There still are lines outside the Uffizzi and at the Academy to see David. The only time to have easy access to everything in Florence and enjoy only the locals is mid January to mid February, my absolute favorite time to have the city all to myself. I guess it’s a matter of which weather you can support: the heat and humidity of the summer or the damp and cold of winter.

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Line today at the Uffizzi.  It was moving at a quick pace, though…

As recently reported in Time magazine, (http://time.com/5349533/europe-against-tourists/) the overwhelming numbers of tourists filling many choice European travel destinations is a real problem. These cities bulging with tourists have been compared to Disneyland. Both share long waits and long lines to attractions.

Here you see a building in Piazza Duomo undergoing repair with an advertisement for yes, Disney….watch out for what you wish for Florence.

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Florentine Street Shrines, Tabernacles & Moments to Reflect

Today seems like an appropriate time to focus on reflection.  We often take stock at the beginning of a new year and pause to consider the past year as well as thoughts for the new.

These moments of pause can happen serendipitously when one is walking alone on the streets of Florence and discovers an outside shrine.

In Florence, as in all of Italy, beautiful shrines and tabernacles can be found on buildings in most neighborhoods: Street Art.

Often to be found in unexpected places:IMG_4133

Originally built by the early Romans to honor their pagan gods and ask for their protection, outdoor shrines became common place. With the arrival of Christianity, cities chose their patron saints and dedicated  shrines to them.  The Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist take top billing in Florence.

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So during the course of a walk one can find themselves gazing upon an image that provokes emotion and thought.

Attention and care are evident by the display of flowers and even notes of petition.

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The energy can be contagious and you may find yourself in a mediative breath. Your own petitions may come to mind.

No matter what your religion or if any, take a moment to pause and reflect.  It can be a welcome moment in a day full of sight seeing and other activities. For me it is a slow down moment. A moment to often think of loved ones or just feel the gratitude of being in such a special place.

Allow me to wish all a very Happy New Year full of joy, peace, love and travel!

I dedicate this post to my brother Robert who recently passed away.  Here we are in 2016 in the town of Panzano in Chianti.

 

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A cup of coffee/una tazza di caffè

When I heard that Starbucks was planning to open it’s first shop in Milan, my first thought was WHY?

Italians have perfected the art of the ritual of having a caffè. Whether it is the mid-morning break or the end of the lunch meal, folks here are serious about their coffee. In fact, most have their go-to Bar where they have a relationship with the barista.

The Bar d’Azeglio is our lunch spot and so Andrea prepares our cups daily.  However I’ve been known to grab a quick mid morning breakfast at Robiglio or the delicious pastry shop Dolci e Dolcezze.

Each bar carries a specific brand. Our favorite is Caffè Piansa , which we also purchase to brew our early morning coffee at home. Torrefazione Piansa is a small company located just outside of Florence, so the beans are toasted locally.

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Illy Espresso is another great brand.

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In the Illy cup is an espresso macchiato, with a small amount of hot foamed milk. One can also request cold milk.

The choices for your coffee are endless.

Short or corto;  Caffe lungo, which contains more caffeine; macchiato caldo, my favorite, with a small amount of hot foamed milk; macchiato freddo, which comes with a samll pot of cold milk for you to add to your coffee; caffe corretto, to which a small amount of hard liquor is added, and the list goes on….

Here we have a cappuccino and it really works best with a cornetto (the Italian version of a croissant) or a lovely budino de riso (rice pudding pastry) or a fruit pastry such as the apple with my cappucino at Dolce e Dolcezza:

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It’s also good to remember that having a coffee at the counter can be a third to a half the price of sitting at a table!

Which brings us back to the question of Starbucks. In a large city such as Milan or Rome or any other Italian city where there are lots of tourists and/or students the thought of being able to sit down at a table with your computer and enjoy free wifi can be appealing.  Also we Americans have perfected the art of coffee to-go which is available here,  but the idea of an espresso in a styrofoam, cup well, I’ll leave you to ponder that idea!

*For your enjoyment I’m attaching a link to a song about caffe by the late, great  Neapolitan singer Pino Daniele. He is singing in the dialect of Naples and Roberto Benigni is featured. At that time smoking was allowed in restaurants. so just try and smile through the smoke filled clip.  The action will start after the 8 second film commercial.

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A Perfect Sunday in Florence. Buona Domenica a tutti!

Having arrived in Florence after a four month absence and fully jumping into the Florentine rhythm, happily visiting friends and trying out the new eateries, it took the third Sunday to decide to just chill and see how this day would unfold.

Got to the Piazza Santa Maria Novella and decided to check out the visiting exhibit on early twentieth century Estonian Paintings, Visions From the North, at the Novecento Museum which is right on the piazza. I was very motivated as a lover of impressionism and the fact that this Sunday was “Sunday at the Museum” allowing residents free entry into state museums!IMG_5555

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Here are some of my favorites:

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The Enn Kunila collection is one of the largest private collections of contemporary northeastern European paintings. Great to see it in this small lovely museum.

As I walked from the museum I decided to explore what was new on the small street via della Spada. What did I find? A great boutique: Ottod’Ame. It means 8 women and the clothing is designed and made in Florence.  There is a store in Milan and soon will be another in Lucca. I loved the clothing and did buy an outfit!

Continuing on my walk home I could not resist stopping to get a little pre-lunch snack at Procacci on Via de’ Tornabuoni. Established in 1885, it is still one of the best spots to hop in and enjoy a glass of Antinori wine and a little  fresh sweet roll buttered with something wonderful and  stuffed with salmon, patè and/or many other great gourmet combinations.  These little gems are called panini tartufatti and once you try them you will be craving them.

Almost home, passing Piazza D’Azeglia with it’s first signs of Spring

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I count my blessings as I anticipate the delicious Sunday lunch my darling has cooked for us!

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A Night at the Museum with Ai Weiwei at Palazzo Strozzi in Florence

Walking in the center of Florence today you cannot miss the facade of the Palazzo Strozzi.

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Before entering the building Ai Weiwei’s installation begins to signal that you are about to see an exhibit unlike any that has been housed in this historic venue. The contemporary Chinese artist and activist has been allowed use of the entire building and museum, which is a first in its history. He is considered the most famous living artist in China, and many think the world.

This is an exhibit that requires you to look beyond the objects that he uses, into their metaphorical meaning. These are not just rubber life boats that are hung on the Strozzi but rather a loud statement of the plight of immigrants today.

His statements, which are enlarged and displayed in the lower level  Strozzina gallery are provocative.

His statement,”Everything is art. Everything is political” gives us a deeper meaning into the title of his exhibit: Libero/Free.

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950 bikes are “stacked” symbolizing the freedom that allows the Chinese people to be mobile; the freedom to move about.

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Some of the display rooms are covered in wallpaper designed by Weiwei. In the photo of a section of the wallpaper you see that he has made a statement against censorship. Note the surveillance cameras with the Twitter symbol in the middle.

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“If we didn’t have this technology, I would be the same as everyone else I couldn’t really amplify my voice”

A most chilling installation is”The Snake Bag”, created after the 2008 Sichuan earthquake, where thousands lost their lives.  360 identical backpacks are stitched together in memory of the school children lost there. (a strong protest against the Chinese government, which tried to cover up the scandal of unsafely constructed buildings.)

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How is this food for thought: He Xie, river crabs, created in 2011. As a response to the government destroying his art studio Ai Weiwei invited guests to a banquet where he served river crabs, the symbol of tyranny. This installation is made up of hundreds of porcelain river crabs

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Ai Weiwei also revisits the Italian Renaissance paying homage to the political dissidents of that era, Dante, Savonarola, Galileo and Filippo Strozzi. The Palazzo was built by Strozzi after he returned. He wanted to build a bigger palace to show them!

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Below, Dante designed in Legos!

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The artist, breaking a 2,000 year old Han dynasty urn rendered in legos:

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Personally, to have seen this exhibit in a time of political turmoil in my own country was sobering, yet hopeful.

The exhibit is on untill January 22, 2017.

If in Florence do not miss it.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | 4 Comments

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