Culture observations

A little bit of this and a little bit of that…Un po’ di questo e un po’ di quello!

Nothing beats being able to go with the flow and doing things spontaneously if at all possible. Visit some favorite restaurants, discover new ones, go to outdoor markets, stop in at free exhibits, attend a concert buying tickets at box office last minute, and just take the time to observe cultural differences while people-watching.

Take a walk in the hills of Florence on a beautiful day. I recommend the walk from Piazzale Michelangelo then climbing up to the Basilica di San Miniato next up to Forte di Belvedere, down to the neighborhood of San Niccoló.

Walking sticks sure do come in handy!

At Piazzale I met Victoire who creates mosaic jewelry in the Florentine style that can be so difficult to find these days. I remember collecting picture frames and pill boxes years ago. Mosaico Bizantino articles can make great gifts.

Worth a stop. Her work is beautiful.

In Florence there are monthly outdoor markets. On the third Sunday of every month the organic market at Santa Spirito has aa selection of spices, herbs, delicious jams, cheese etc. as well as handmade hats, scarfs, toys and more. Quality stuff.

Just about every square has something going on, any day of the week, and if its an arts and crafts (artesan) fair & you happen to pass one do check it out. Here at Piazza Dei Ciompi is one I was lucky enough to find at sundown.

While walking through the Piazza della Signoria, after spending time gazing in awe at the recently renovated Neptune Fountain, I noticed a “free entry exhibit” in the Palazzo Vecchio (the working City Hall of Florence). Any excuse will do to visit this historic building. It is an exhibit by a contemporary artist that centered around famous women in Florence from the Renaissance to modern times. Mixed media and very interesting.

As you wander around the city you’ll will observe that sidewalks can be very narrow as their adjacent streets. Problem is Italians like to converse in small groups on the sidewalks & often do not move (or are aware) that folks need to pass. Often one has to step into the street to pass them (or trying saying “mi scusi”, which has its own hazards. Watch out for the bike riders and be sure to look both ways before stepping into the street. Actually cars are known to be parked and/or moving on sidewalks as well. We can call this Italian “creative” free thinking or cultural differences???

Sunday morning Oct. 9, 2023 concert at Fondazione Zeffirelli

The Museum Zeffirelli within the complex contains his body of work. He was a master not only of film, but staging operas and designing sets. He was and still is a favorite son of the city.

Next post will feature current favorite restaurants and fashion trend. Happy travels and a presto!

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence | 8 Comments

Al Rientro a Firenze/ Upon re-entering Florence…

After an absence of many months it takes me a week or so to get in sync with the local customs & surroundings to develop my Florentine routine. For those of you coming for the first time or coming again and again (UNDERSTANDABLE!), allow me to share my strategies for getting the most of a visit.

Walking through the city to check out what is new and/or which of your favorite stores or restaurants are still open helps to reacquaint you with the city.

Visiting neighborhood essential shops such as favorite food market stands or the local pharmacy to greet the shop owners and hear the wonderful phrase, “ben tornata”, (welcome back) gives you a warm fuzzy feel.

Whether you are visiting for a few days, weeks or months obtaining a copy of the English-speaking news magazine, The Florentine, will keep you informed as to the latest cultural happenings in the city. http://www.theflorentine.net as well as the monthly magazine Firenze Spettacolo. I also make a habit of stopping at the local newsstand, “edicola” every Saturday to pick up the newspaper Corriere Della Sera which contains the Saturday magazine “Io Donna”. Not only does it cover some of the cultural events in some of the major cities of Italy, It is all about the fashion “La moda” and we want to be up to the latest trends so we can make the most of our shopping trips. 😉

Once I have my overview and I am on italian time I am ready to go experience La Dolce Vita!

On these first walks through the city you can’t help noticing the onslaught of tourists…making up for lost time during the height of the pandemic. One soon discovers the less traveled side streets to get around.

You will be tempted to walk into every store you pass as the window displays are so artfully done.

local flower shop

The surprise of catching outdoor installations confirming the fact that Florence itself is an outdoor museum. Love to see the mixing of contemporary art in the middle of all the Renaissance architecture.

At the San Lorenzo basilica complex there is a temporary outdoor exhibit on show until October 31 created by the artist Emanuele Gianelli. These resin, hand painted statues are creating quite a stir. It is a not to be missed photo op. The white statue, called Mr. Arbitrium, looks as if he is holding up the wall of the church or doing a stretch before he takes a run.

In the cloister of the complex the artist’s work, The Suspended, “I Sospesi” features resin figures hanging from their ankles. There are many interpretations of the the meaning including the a possible statement of the condition of todays society…at any rate food for thought.

I was motivated to visit the contemporary museum Novecento in Piazza Santa Maria Novella after viewing the San Lorenzo exhibit. As some of you might recall the last post I wrote during my last visit to Florence featured the Novecento. One of the current exhibits highlights the British artist Tony Cragg and his sculptures. Another show not to be missed and it’s on till Jan. 15, 2023.

As we navigated new neighborhoods we came across the restaurant Gervis. In ten days we have been there twice. A great find. https://gervis-bistro.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral

Back room at Gervis

Do plan your adventure around Florence by doing a bit of scouting. It will serve you well and make your visit all the more meaningful. Happy Travels and “A Presto”.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, food, Observations in Florence | Tags: , | 8 Comments

Jenny Saville Dominates the Museum Scene in Florence

Currently drawings and paintings from the British contemporary artist Jenny Saville are in exhibit at five museums in Florence. It’s the HAPPENING of the art scene here. Her art is juxtaposed next to the Renaissance masters, comparing and contrasting the theme of motherhood as well as nudes and female faces. She is the only “She” artist represented in the room; Renaissance art just got real! The comparisons ties the art of the Masters to one of our greatest living artists. Each work from both the Masters and Saville, side by side, has added to their depth and meaning. This is a journey not to be missed.

If you are in Florence this exhibit will continue through February 20, 2021. My suggestion is to start in the Museo Novecento to get an appreciation of Saville and her figurative and portrait art. Do not discard your ticket for it will be useful in the other four museums that are part of this expansive exhibition. This link will provide you with the hours, days and discounted prices of the Museums. http://www.museonovecento.it/en/jenny-saville-orari-e-biglietti-dei-musei-coinvolti-nella-mostra/

Here at the Novecento, inside the former church of the Spedale, is the portrait of Rosetta ll, a blind woman. The setting for this work is quite special as when looking through the door you, as well as Rosetta can gaze across the Piazza Santa Maria Novella into the Basilica SMN, to glimpse of Giotto’s wooden crucifix hanging in Nave when the church door of the Basilica is open.

At the Novecento there are 70 drawings and paintings of the artist, with 30 more, spread across the other four venues.

Once completing your visit to the Novecento, visit the other four museums in any order.

The Museo degli Innocenti, was next on my journey. Here with Botticelli, Luca Della Robbia, Saville shows us her motherhood. So fitting to see these in the former Orphanage of the Innocents.

At the Casa Buonarotti the theme of motherhood continues including the Jenny Saville’s study for Pieta V as well as Mother and Child drawings from Michelangelo and Saville

In the Salone dei Cinquecento located in Palazzo Vecchio, Saville’s “Fulcrum” is displayed amid sculptures of the Renaissance and the great murals of Vasari’s massive men in battle. In Fulcrum we see a mountain of naked women.

The last visit on my Saville journey was to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Beside Michelangelo’s marble Pieta, a larger than life drawing of Saville’s family in the same entwined pose.

My hope is that this expansive and important exhibit will be extended past February 20 so visitors to Florence in the Spring can view it. Also important to remember that these five museums should be on the top of anyone’s list of attractions when coming to Florence. There are impressive works of art in the permanent collections of all these museums. You will be moved.

Truly, one does not need to wait on a line for hours (the Uffizi and Academia) to see GREAT museums in Florence. My all time favorites here are, the Innocenti and the Duomo. You can view my past posts on the Museo degli Innocenti https://wordpress.com/post/fondlyfromflorence.com/1018 and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo https://wordpress.com/post/fondlyfromflorence.com/615

Happy travels!

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

Il Ritorno…The return to Florence 2021

After an absence of almost two years due in large part to the COVID epidemic we are happy to finally be back in Florence. Took a good week to get over a PTSD induced jet lag brought on by the anxiety of preparing for an international flight during a global pandemic, however one look at this vista and one feels reborn.

What I’ve found most impressive upon arrival is the attention paid to safety and the following of COVID rules here. One can not enter a restaurant, concert hall, museum and indoor/outdoor happenings like sporting events etc. without a green pass or similar proof of vaccine from your country, in my case the Center of Disease Control (CDC) card from the USA. Masks in all shops including supermarkets, in churches, and on public transport.

Now that all of that has been established it is time to enjoy Autumn in Florence.

First things first, RESTAURANTS….

Just before leaving Florence during our last trip we were able to have dinner at Nugolo. It was open about a week and already there had been lots of buzz about this farm to table new eatery. As I followed its progress on Instagram during our exile I knew that it would be a first stop upon our return. The seasonal menu offers an original take of Italian favorites as well as new modern Mediterranean dishes. For example, Tortelli filled with ossobuco with a green sauce and candied lemon. Wonderful atmosphere as well.

Nugolo

Tortelli filled with ossobuco

Le Lune, I am happy to report, is thriving as it is in the middle of a nursery where you will be seated at a table surrounded by shrubs and beautiful plants giving you privacy and space. New chef and new choices make for a great menu.

Le Lune

Arà has opened a spot to sample their Sicilian “street food” on a lovely outdoor patio. They have been doing a great take out business as well during the pandemic. It is next to Pescepane where great fish dishes can be found. Both are located in the Sant’ Ambrogio neighborhood which has become the #1 foodie “quartiere” of Florence.

Ara

Speaking of Sant’Ambrogio, right next door, actually attached to the church’s cloister, is a new Caffe called Ditta Artigianale. The space is fantastic, with the church’s architecture taking center stage. They offer brunch between 9:00 am and 3:00 pm and a full cocktail bar with cocktail dinner bites such as pulled pork sliders, summer rolls and tacos later in the day. Yup, brunch is also American style with pancakes, and bagels and avocado toast. For those of you that are students or just in Florence for a lengthy stay sometimes a taste of home (often better than home) can be a welcome change. Judging by the number of Florentines enjoying the Ditta Artigianale I’d say the owners got this one right; it is a huge success and the talk of the town!

Ditta Artigianale

Happenings…

Museums are open and showing new exhibits.

The Strozzi (Palazzo Strozzi) starting Oct.2 through January 30, 2022 will feature Jeff Koons. Shine. The exhibit will feature a new perspective on the history of contemporary art in the United States. A selection of more than 80 works by 55 artists including Andy Warhol, Louise Nevelson, Roy Lichtenstein, Mark Rothko and many more.

As Florence is celebrating the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante, he is the focus of many exhibits. The Ufizzi Gallery currently is showing “In the Name of Dante. The Casentino in the Divine Comedy” till Nov. 30, 2021.

The opera house of Florence, Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, has a full schedule of concerts, opera and symphonies. I recently attended a performance of La Traviata which was one of the best performances I have ever seen. Noteworthy is the attention to detail and the precise organization of keeping the audience safe and socially distanced.

note the social distance spacing

Opera House of Florence

Teatro del Maggio

Moda:

Looks like the color green and color blocks dominate the fashion scene here in Florence. Lots of bright color after a somber lockdown. Lots of every shade of green. It is said that the color green can represent hope and renewal and ENDURANCE.

Lots to do and lots to see…Florence is waiting for you! So to those of you who are contemplating a trip back to Florence, rest assured, every measure has been taken to see that the spread of COVID is contained. So many of us have missed traveling, in particular to this city of wonders. We can travel smart by following the rules. A small price to pay to feeling alive again. Happy & safe travels. A presto!

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Autumn Weekends in Florence and Enjoying the Rhythm of the City

As the weather turns cooler, visitor numbers are smaller and one can really feel the true vibe of Florentine life, without the distraction of navigating lines of tourists. One of my very favorite things to do here is to go with the flow.  On the weekends, city traffic is less and strolling in town is a pleasure.

Saturday traditionally is a shopping day and going to the outdoor food markets visiting the fruit & vegetable and meat stands, shoulder to shoulder with the locals, is a rite of passage. Sant’ Ambrogio market is the heart of our neighborhood and our Saturday ritual is doing our shopping there, stopping for a mid morning cappuccino, picking up flowers and the Saturday newspaper.  On this particular Saturday we arrived at the grand opening of the relocated flea market, Mercato delle Pulci, right across the road from the market.  Plenty of pomp and circumstance including the Florentine city ceremonial band in medieval costumes as well as the mayor and lots of journalists. A beautiful new location for antiques and bric-a-brac.

Sunday or “festa” as it is referred to in Italy to differentiate from the work day or “giorno feriale” is indeed a day to change your pace.  The wonderful bells announcing Mass throughout the morning and in the early evening will remind you to do just that – slow down. Florentines often go to museums before or after 1:00 pm lunch which is the one day a week that the country is in agreement with having a big meal at that hour as it has been done for centuries. (In the last few decades, the main daily meal has been moved to the evening as students as well as working parents are not coming home for lunch).

This Sunday, Palazzo Antinori’s special exhibit “La Firenze di Giovanni e Telemaco Signorini” ended. The lines for its seven week run were impressive.  My husband and I were happy to wait in line for an hour in the courtyard of this amazing building chatting with the locals about Antinori wine as well as the art we were about to view.  The paintings of life in Florence showed just how much the city has not changed over the centuries.  Beautiful and a tribute to this city!

 

Ponte alla Carraia                                Via Della Condotta

 

 

 

Don’t despair if you missed this exhibit, as the The Gallery of Modern Art at the Pitti Palace contains many works of the Macchiaioli, a form of Italian Impressionism in the second half of the 19th century, that were represented at the Palazzo Antinori exhibit.

 

For those travelers that are planning a trip here soon, take advantage of visiting the Palazzo Strozzi to see the exhibit of the Russian artist Natalia Goncharova. As always the Strozzi exhibits are not to be missed. The exhibit is scheduled to close on Jan, 12, 2020. Here are a few images form this show.

 

The best way to end a Sunday morning museum visit is having the Sunday meal at one of the best restaurants in this city…Il Latini, and it never disappoints.

Word of advise to visitors, after a few days of the mandatory sight seeing, save some time to be a local.  Follow their lead and savor their routines and customs to really understand the lifestyle of the Florentines.

 

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Stylin (Styling), Italians Do It Better!

Looking good or La Bella Figura is a way of life in Italy.  Milan is often at the top of the list when considering which city is the Fashion capital of the world. Interesting to note that the fashion boom got started here in Florence.  In 1952 in the White Room of the Pitti Palace was organized to hold it’s first International Fashion Show, with International press and buyers present.  Italian fashion was born. To the present, Pitti Uomo, Donna and Bambini are fashion events held throughout the year, and now at many other venues in Florence.  A time where International buyers and the press fill the city.

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The Sala Bianca/White Room of the Pitti Palace/Palazzo Pitti

However one does not need to attend one of the Pitti shows on the fashion circuit to see Italian fashion.  Just strolling on the streets of Florence one can easily see what is La Moda.

In years past I would often have fun trying to guess the color of the season just minutes after I arrived in the city.  Seasons of black, white, red, orange… Fashionistas wore the new colors and style like classy uniforms.

Today things have loosened up in the sense that I see more of a freedom of choices.  It is difficult today to pick out the color of the moment, yet anything that is worn is worn with a flair, with a nod to what is in Vogue. There for sure is an emphasis of colors that are “in”, especially by looking at merchandise hanging in the markets or in the beautifully designed shop windows or in the fashion magazines.  Last Fall, I saw lots of gold being displayed, and this Spring more of a yellow.

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Fall 2018, market stand in Florence

 

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Same Stand, Spring 2019

 

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Material shop, Florence

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Saturday insert “IO Donna” of Corriere Della Sera, April 6, 2019

Fashion and design are everywhere, yet I’m witnessing a new freedom of choices. Folks do not seem to be slaves of the latest trend and color. It’s their choice. There is a new confidence in the air.

Statements continue to be made and La Bella Figura is alive and well. It’s an attitude; a way of moving , a way of being. Italians just seem to wear it better. Whether, the tying or wrapping of a scarf or the number of bracelets you wear, it’s done with, well a panache.

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I’m convinced that if an Italian wore potato sacks they would do it with flair and look great. Go ahead have fun and see if you can pick out the tourists form the natives.  Here’s a hint, if you see a woman on a bike, wearing stiletto heels, talking on her cell phone in a great outfit, without a helmet, that’s a Florentine.  La Bella Figura reigns.

 

 

 

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Domenica è Sempre Domenica! Sunday is Always Sunday!

The celebration of Sunday rituals is one of the best examples of Italian lifestyle that has persevered throughout the centuries. In fact on Italian calendars and time schedules Sunday is referred to as “festa” to distinguish it from weekdays.

The peaceful quiet of a Sunday morning is a welcome change to the hustle and bustle of weekday traffic noise. One can awake to the sounds of church bells announcing that soon it will be time for Mass.

And so Sundays begin with Mass at your neighborhood church

Sant’Ambrogio Church

Next off to the neighborhood bakery or pasticceria to pick up dessert for Sunday 1:00 lunch which is the main meal of the day. While picking up your dessert, might as well enjoy a cappuccino and pastry to serve as your after Mass breakfast.

Pasticceria Nencioni

A couple of more stops could include the Forno or bread shop, for your freshly baked bread as well as the Newsstand, Edicola, to pick up your Sunday paper.

Many families, or the parent who is not cooking the Sunday meal (or if lucky the grandparents are preparing the feast as only they know how to do), will accompany their child to the neighborhood park for an hour or so. Good idea to work up an appetite…

Piazza Massimo D’Azeglio

So after the huge feast, well what else, turn on the TV and root for your favorite soccer team and/or take a nap.

Weather permitting it’s time for an afternoon stroll or “Quattro passi”

Work up some more appetite and then Sunday night pizza in a pizzeria!

When I was younger, I often thought of liberating myself from what I then thought was just too structured and slow for the way I should spend my day. Now I realize there is much wisdom to the idea of some tradition and ritual. The rhythm of this way of life seems to put my body, mind and soul at ease. The beauty of a Buona Domenica.

Now for your enjoyment a clip from the 1950’s version of the Italian Sunday Ed Sullivan show:

https://youtu.be/LpRHjGcx27U

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The Elections are coming the Elections are Coming…Italian Style!

Often friends and acquaintances ask me questions about Italian politics. Now as the Italian Elections are set to take place on March 4, it seems to be the topic du jour.

It may well take me a lifetime to try and understand the electoral process and its ramifications in Italy.  To understand why people make their choices one needs to get into the psyche of a nation, no matter where.

The following is a simple overview of what I do know and some of my observations.

The ballot that is sent to Italians who can vote and live in the States has nine (yes 9!) parties listed. There are many more parties listed on ballots in Italy as if more are needed! Below a sample of the ballot for House of Representatives. You usually do not see names of candidates; in Italy you vote for the party.  It often is not clear who will lead their party till after it is chosen.

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The Democratic Party or PD is the party in power now and has been for five years, with Prime Minister Paolo Gentiloni as the head replacing Matteo Renzi who was the the PM till late 2016.

You may recognize a familiar name on the coalition symbol. The League, formerly known as Lega Nord, is a combination of three parties: Forza Italia, whose spokesperson is Silvio Berlusconi, who had been a three time prime minister in the recent past but can not attend parliament at the moment due to a criminal conviction. Confused yet…?  It will be interesting to see which of the three names on the ballot will lead the party if they get the majority.

Moving on to the Five Star Movement, Movimento 5 Stelle, which was founded by comedian Beppe Grillo. He has decided he will not run the party if it wins the majority.

The three parties that I have listed are the three that seem to be  the front-runners.

“Free Flights to Italy” is not a front runner! Anyone can register a party.

I do have opinions but will try not to express those views in this post, I will however venture to express the following observations (opinions?!).

All elections in all countries need to be taken very seriously and citizens need to vote.  Sounds fundamental?  In the United States, approximately 50% of its citizens vote.  While in Italy over 75% of the population vote. However, due to the large number of parties represented, in spite of the turnout, often no party takes the majority and a coalition has to be formed. With no party dominating, the promise for change is put on the back burner.  In the past this has been the main reason why governments do not last the five year term allowed by the Constitution.  That is why Italy has had so many governments since 1945, when it was still a monarchy.

These last few years has seen a world wide populist movement, which many attribute to the huge immigration numbers caused by war, and economic crisis resulting in unemployment. Many feel disenfranchised. Yet, change is slow to come and when there may be an upswing to the standard of living, a change in government takes place and often things slide backwards. A wave of fear has gripped voters resulting in a cry for solutions.  Often, people who react from fear make drastic choices and take chances without thinking through long term consequences. We have seen in many nations, parties and/or candidates, who are to the extreme left or right take the stage. What we are seeing results in division among the nation’s population.  One side vs. the other with not much accomplished, except resentments or worse.

When making choices some important questions may need to be asked. Is the candidate or the party making promises he/she can keep? Are solutions being presented or are we hearing criticisms of each other without clear goals and objectives? What about experience and competence? How has that been measured in the past, for it really does count.  Last but not least, ethics.  Is the dialogue respectful, or is it all name calling and bullying…

I am hoping that citizens of all countries as, they take their voting responsibility in hand, look at world history (and current events) and the mistakes that have resulted from poor choices and give serious thought to their vote. Our world’s future counts on it.

 

 

 

 

 

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Florentine Street Shrines, Tabernacles & Moments to Reflect

Today seems like an appropriate time to focus on reflection.  We often take stock at the beginning of a new year and pause to consider the past year as well as thoughts for the new.

These moments of pause can happen serendipitously when one is walking alone on the streets of Florence and discovers an outside shrine.

In Florence, as in all of Italy, beautiful shrines and tabernacles can be found on buildings in most neighborhoods: Street Art.

Often to be found in unexpected places:IMG_4133

Originally built by the early Romans to honor their pagan gods and ask for their protection, outdoor shrines became common place. With the arrival of Christianity, cities chose their patron saints and dedicated  shrines to them.  The Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist take top billing in Florence.

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So during the course of a walk one can find themselves gazing upon an image that provokes emotion and thought.

Attention and care are evident by the display of flowers and even notes of petition.

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The energy can be contagious and you may find yourself in a mediative breath. Your own petitions may come to mind.

No matter what your religion or if any, take a moment to pause and reflect.  It can be a welcome moment in a day full of sight seeing and other activities. For me it is a slow down moment. A moment to often think of loved ones or just feel the gratitude of being in such a special place.

Allow me to wish all a very Happy New Year full of joy, peace, love and travel!

I dedicate this post to my brother Robert who recently passed away.  Here we are in 2016 in the town of Panzano in Chianti.

 

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The Good the Bad and the Ugly: Reflections of a Frequent Traveler to Florence

In the more than four years that I have been posting on this blog, I have sung the praises of Firenze.  It is a city that fills me with passion and emotion and is a city that I love.

However, on this return visit, I noticed that while I felt the rush of positive emotions I was quicker than usual to note the negative. This really is a good sign as it must mean I am becoming a local and feel at home!  After all, looking at our home cities with a critical eye is part of the process that drives improvement.

So bear with me as I list some of the ups and downs of life in Florence that I have encountered this Fall.

The GOOD:

Florence is a small city compared to the cosmopolitan cities of a London, New York or Paris, yet it offers top museums, exhibits and opera and all within walking distance. Within days of our arrival we were able to purchase tickets to the opera Tosca at the Opera of Florence. The city also has done a great job of making seats more accessible to all by offering a range of ticket prices and opportunities for discounts. A very GOOD thing.

Here folks arrive and begin to take their seats in this beautiful contemporary venue.

 

One of the first museums I visit is the Palazzo Strozzi because their biannual exhibits are top notch.  This Fall the Strozzi is focusing on the art of  The Cinquecento in Florence. From Michelangelo and Pontormo to Giambologna. Having these masterpieces under one roof and being able to follow the timeline  is a treat.  The Strozzi Musuem is for sure a GOOD thing.

Not far from the Strozzi is the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum which shows very unusual and worthy exhibits, Yes the same shoe Ferragamo. The title of the show is “1927  the Return to Italy”. It highlights the return to Italy of the shoe designer after spending 12 years in the States. We are literally passengers on the cruise ship and are presented with the artistic expression of the time in the years before Fascism.   Italian design of that decade is the focus.

 

Seeing all the innovative art, culture and design of that era confirmed my belief that Italy has been a leader in these areas since the pre Renaissance right up to the present. The city of Florence continues to be a showcase for the arts. A very GOOD thing.

It is hard to deny that Florence has some of the best vistas in the world.  Caching a sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo is a must in any season as well as Piazza della Signoria or any of the other beautiful piazzas in Florence.

 

(and now for the BAD and the UGLY…)

Did I say Piazza della Signoria? Well it can be your call, GOOD or UGLY (hint many Florentines refer to this temporary work of art as “La Diviana Cacata”).

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Speaking of “cacca”  as anyone who does lots of walking in the city knows one needs to look down to be careful of where they step.  Many dog owners do not pick up after their dogs and do not even use the “Curb”. A BAD thing for sure, however I was encouraged by this warning that one sees on various streets:

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Translation: Animal, When you do not pick up…The animal is not your dog, its you! The ticket is from 160 euro.

A GOOD thing! However the city needs to work on getting the “Vigili Urbani” organized and on the streets so they can hand out those fines.

Which brings me to the another very unfortunate and ugly fact, the lack of of the traffic police (Vigili) during traffic jams. Construction of another tram for this city is underway, a GOOD thing, however many streets are blocked especially around the train station. It has become a nightmare for both drivers and bus riders as well as anyone daring to drive or take a taxi.  Traffic can be blocked for hours and there is little or no supervision of traffic, especially on a Sunday evening.  Guess everyone thinks it is their day of rest!

Graffiti on the walls of the city buildings is also another horror. Yup, more of the BAD and the UGLY.

I will say I am beginning to notice a little less graffiti and have learned that the city of Florence has set up an association “The Angels of Beauty” to help clean up the grafitti as well as raise awareness. A GOOD thing.

I have not gone into cultural differences and sense of territory or space. An exanple: when one is walking on these tiny sidewalks, many locals don’t move; meaning if they are standing in a group chatting and blocking your path or heading at you at full speed, with or without an umbrella, moving to the side or saying excuse me does not happen…but I will save the cultural differences (or just indifference) for another post.

Believe me the GOOD (the food, the food!) and the BEAUTIFUL out number the BAD and the UGLY, but at times I wonder if Florence could use some help from Clint Eastwood…

 

 

 

 

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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