Author Archives: fondlyfromflorence

I Cappelli di Firenze…hats, hats and more hats

Anyone who loves to wear hats, as much as I do, will not be disappointed in the selection of hats in Florence and in learning and understanding the evolution of il cappello Fiorentino.

Throughout history hats have had social and cultural connotations as well as serving the practical purpose of keeping heads warm and protecting from the bright sun and let’s not forget making fashion statements. My guess is the Florentine straw hat was created by women as they gathered on sunny afternoons on their benches to weave these creations to protect themselves from the Florentine summer sun.

It may be argued that the Borsalino hat is the most famous hat from Italy, however the original straw hat still made in Signa, Florence, was introduced in the 1600’s, over 250 years before the Borsalino.

The Straw Museum in Signa, ( a small suburb of Florence) highlights the rich tradition of women working with straw and the creation of the hat industry. http://www.museopaglia.it/

Visitors at the museum will get a glimpse of Florentine artisan craftsmanship and the original concept of “made in Italy”.

The Borsalino store in Florence can be found across from the Mercato Nuovo or the straw market (Il Porcellino market) on via Porta Rossa.

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While at the Straw Market versions of the original Florentine straw hat can be found.  They are basic and much cheaper hat than the hats found at Borsalino!

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Today, the choices for hats range from market copies to the most elegant and my favorite, the Grevi shop near Via Tornabuoni on Via della Spada.

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Currently, a not to be missed exhibit on the history of hats is at Palazzo Pitti in the Galleria del Costume. The “Il Cappello di Firenze Consortium” has contributed to this wonderful presentation. This group is promoting the conservation of manual artisan skills as a tremendous value of the heritage of Florence and Italy. Below are some of the hats on display.

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A Borsalino hat looking very much like a boater hat and what the Venetian gondoliers wear.

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AND, a display of Grevi hats from the 1960’s

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The exhibit is on till May 18, 2014.    http://www.cappelloinmostra.it/eng/presentazione.html

As the hat has evolved in Florence, so has  my taste in hats. As a child my father told me that real women wear hats.  I followed his advice. From my first Easter bonnets to my Jackie Kennedy pill box to my current winter and  summer collections with at least three Grevi originals.

IMG_1806fullsizeoutput_1b18with childhood friends on an Easter Sunday, wearing versions of the Jackie Kennedy hat.IMG_1804IMG_1804 Diane’s summer and winter Florentine Hats

On your Florentine shopping list make sure you add a hat. You will not regret it and just maybe you will start your own collection of HATS and More HATS!

 

 

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Celebrate: Carnevale and Festa della Donna

Every season offers opportunity to celebrate life in Italy and this year, the end of winter gives us two special “feste”

This past Tuesday, Fat Tuesday, was the  official final day of celebrating the Italian version of Mardi Gras or as it is known here: Carnevale.  In Italy, the biggest celebrations are in Viareggio and Venice.  The Tuscan beach city of Viareggio is about an hour west of Florence. The parade along the promenade attracts many who come to be seen in their costumes as well as view the elaborate papier-mâché floats   The parades go on for over a month extending for a couple of weeks following the beginning of Lent. It is fun to watch as children sport their costumes and throw paper confetti at each other, not only in Venice and Viareggio but in every neighborhood of Italy.  Confetti or colorful paper dots cover sidewalks adding to the festive mood. Below is the entrance rug to a hotel in La Villa in the Dolomites. So it’s costumes, parades, confetti and treats. Very much a fun masquerade and a time to PARTY!

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Here at the Hotel La Majun, the staff celebrates…

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I join in the fun.

Pastry shops and bars display mounds of Carnivale treats and in Florence it is Cenci! These fried cookies (and oven baked if you are trying to cut some of the calories) are hard to resist.

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Each region of Italy has it’s version of Carnevale treats and while in the Dolomites last week I tasted the fruit filled beignet or donut that is made during this time.

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This year, the party continued with the International Women’s Day, or Festa della Donna, falling on Saturday March 8. The bright yellow mimosa flower is the symbol of this event.  It is lovely to see the city decorated with mimosas and it is almost a sure thing that women will receive a gift of a mimosa bloom either at their local bar or restaurant, or from their employer or a fan.

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The anticipation of the many seasonal traditions, rituals and festivals in Italy adds to one’s appetite for fun, food and frolic and enriches the soul as well.

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Shh, Pistoia is the surprise city of Tuscany!

If you want to really experience a mid-size, elegant, well run Tuscan city, free of many tourists, go to Pistoia.

There are many things to love about Pistoia, a city that is about 19 miles northwest of Florence.  The lack of many tourists is good enough reason to take the quick train ride from the Santa Maria Novella train station in Florence. Once you arrive, a leisurely walk will take you to one of the most charming piazzas in Italy.  Many art treasures can be found within the old walls of this medieval city.  The Duomo of Pistoia is the Cattedrale of San Zeno, which is Romanesque in style.

The Baptistry of St. John in the Piazza is Gothic and today is used for many exhibits and events.

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The church of Sant’ Andrea contains the masterpiece pulpit by Givanni Pisano created in 1301.

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Not to be missed is a visit to the historic hospital, Ospdale del Ceppo, which is one of the oldest hospitals in Italy.  The Loggia was inspired by the Ospedale degli Innocenti in Florence and it’s Della Robbia ceramics. The facade in Pistoia is decorated with a ceramic glaze frieze by Santi Buglioni and it portrays the seven works of mercy, mixed with scenes of the Virtues. Try and arrange a tour of the interior and the archeological excavations below the hospital.

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Marino Marini, a modern sculptor, born in Pistoia in 1901 and died in 1980 is a favorite son.  Here in the beautiful Palazzo del Tau, built in the 1300’s is located the Museo Marino Marini filled with his treasures as well as a lovely garden cafe next door.

The Marino Marini Museum in Florence, located in the former church of San Pancrazio, is  also a most beautiful setting for the work of Marini.

Here I am in the Piazza del Duomo in front of the Comune, or city hall and

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with friends in the Comune’s hall standing in front of a sculpture of Marini.

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The city is considered one of the best cities in Italy to raise children, no doubt partly due to it’s early childhood centers based on the Reggio Emilia philosophy and practice.  I know of at least one American college, Smith, that has a professional connection to the early childhood centers there.

Beautiful ornamental trees  and shrubs as well as garden plants can be found in the famous nurseries of Pistoia , which are considered some of the best in Italy.

The Pistoia outdoor market has something for everyone and is held on Wednesday and Saturday. It is quite large, covering the area of the Piazza del Duomo as well as connecting streets.

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And now for my very favorite section of Pistoia: Piazza della Sala which for centuries has been the open-air food market of the city. Today, there are restaurants that line the square, allowing for outdoor seating, weather permitting.  It is here that you can find the GREAT restaurant La BotteGaia!  Here you can have traditional Tuscan food made with a modern twist.  The food is always fresh and the best of the season.  I have never had a bad meal here and have been coming for many years. It is my #1 in Tuscany! There are outdoor tables in the back of the restaurant that are in the Piazza alongside the famous Baptistry of St. John.

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Around the corner, you can stop by their shop to bring back some wonderful packaged specialties of the area as well as great fresh cheese, cold cuts and sweets. It is called “I Sapore della BotteGaia” (The Tastes of the BotteGaia).

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About 7 km southeast of Pistoia, is the small city of Agliana. It is here you can find the most exquisite chocolate shop of Roberto Catinari! AMAZING.

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Great sights, good shopping, a wonderful restaurant and a stop at the Willy Wonka of Italy…It does not get any better.  Shh, this is our secret!

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Favorite Restaurants in Florence

Live to eat or eat to live, you will have many greats choices in Florence.  In fact, there is no reason to eat badly unless you get caught in a tourist trap. Stay away from the shops that carry sliced pizza behind glass. They line the streets leading to the train station!  Ripoff! Also there are some Mexican restaurants, along with McDonald and Burger King, that may satisfy some Florentines and some American students craving something from the USA.  Need fast food, rather, go to a market and get some fresh bread with prosciutto and/or cheese. If not let me recommend two of my favorite cafes or bars where you can get a quick sandwich, panino or focaccia on the run along with some of the best cappuccino in Florence.

Cantinetta dei Verrazzano has a brick oven where the most wonderful focaccia is made and turned into delectable sandwiches.  Sautéed funghi porcini, mozzarella and tomato, prosciutto and eggplant to name a few of the creations.  Tip: When ordering in a cafe or bar, it is much cheaper to eat at the bar or a table that does not have a tablecloth.  Verazzano has benches along the wall opposite their bakery display. The Florentines eat there while the tourists sit at set tables.

Also remember to have a cappuccino which is hands down the best in town.  In all honesty, it is almost impossible to get bad coffee in Italy!

Another great cafe is  Caffè Cibreo. Located near the St. Ambrogio market and part of the Fabio Picchi Cibrèo empire eateries.  (They include Cibrèo ristorante; Cibrèo trattoria and the always entertaining Teatro del Sale: all wonderful).

It’s a great ritual to start your morning with breakfast at the cafe and then onto to the fantastic St. Ambrogio market. I love the tuna little sandwich.

It is easy to discover a new favorite restaurant every week, but for this post I will focus on those that have been on my list for years; the oldies but goodies.

It’s I Latini for great Tuscan food. The ambiance and menu choices are authentically Florentine.

http://www.illatini.com/en/

About 30 minutes before the doors open for lunch and  for dinner, folks start to line up.  Inside you will find prosciutto hanging from the ceiling, lots of fiasco wine bottles, and large tables where you may find yourself dining with soon to be friends.   All the trimmings for a happy. happy experience.

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The Florentine steak is amazing.  Vegetarians, fear not the zuppa de farro is delicious.

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The wine cellar of Latini offers an unparalleled dining experience.  One needs to either be invited or organize a party of about 20 and hope that the wine gods will smile upon you so the cellar can be booked.  What will follow is a full course I Latini dinner with great wine selections.  Be careful not to step on some of the bottles resting on the ground.

 

If you would like a more intimate and romantic setting  check out Oliviero . This elegant restaurant boasts a traditional Tuscan menu and also a more refined menu with a modern twist featuring exciting seasonal choices.  From appetizer to desert, you will not be disappointed.

http://ristoranteoliviero.it/index.php

My husband and I celebrating a wedding anniversary at Oliviero

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Note: Discovered that my favorite cooking school, La Scuola di Arte Culinaria Cordon Bleu di Firenze, featured a class highlighting the chef and menu of Oliviero.  More on the school in a future post.

If it is a beautiful location with views of the Florentine hills then Osteria Omero is not to be missed.  It is located on the same street as the ancient home of Galileo.

http://www.ristoranteomero.it/it

It is a five minute taxi ride from the center but once there you will think you are far off in the countryside. It also features traditional Tuscan cuisine.  As you enter you are greeted by a selection of cured meats and other delicacies  that are for sale in  the gastronomy shop.  The dining rooms are behind the shop and also downstairs.

Back in town in between the Duomo and Santa Croce neighborhoods we have L’Antico Noe under the arch or Volta di San Piero.

Next door to the the restaurant is their sandwich shop.  Very fresh ingredients are displayed in this casual eatery.  Each season arrangements of fresh artichokes, mushroom, zucchini flowers etc. grace the sideboard in the cozy restaurant.  Massimo, will steer you in the right direction as he suggests his specialties.  Those lucky to be in Florence in the Spring can sample his fava bean and cheese salad (Fava con pecorino ), with warm focaccia. YUM!

Trattoria da Ruggero is another favorite outside Porta Romana on the Via Senese.  This family run trattoria serves Tuscan fare that is always in demand.  The ribollita, pasta carrettiera, thinly sliced roast beef and the castagnaccio (chestnut cake) are the best in town.  With only two seatings, 7:30 and 9:00, it is imperative to make a reservation.

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A group of friends enjoy the second seating at the largest table in the small two room trattoria.

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Most locals have their neighborhood spot which is their go to kitchen when they don’t feel like using their own.  A place where everybody knows your name and you feel at home.   Ours is Ceasarino in the St. Ambrosio neighborhood.  It is a two minute walk from our home where we get home cooking. Every day the menu changes and what can I say, it is a warm fuzzy kinda place. Nothing like waiting for your meal while snacking on the best bread in town dipped in extra virgin olive oil sipping a glass of Chianti. Great way to wine down.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187895-d2349422-r488028746-Trattoria_Cesarino-Florence_Tuscany.html#photos;geo=187895&detail=2349422&ff=232913615&albumViewMode=hero&aggregationId=101&albumid=101&baseMediaId=232913615&thumbnailMinWidth=50&cnt=30&offset=-1&filter=7

 

Next time it off to Pistoia, where do I dare tell you about my number one pick in Tuscany? Buon Appetito!

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Favorite Shops in Florence

During this season of gift giving and with Little Christmas, the Epiphany, in a week, seems like a good time to talk about favorite shops in Florence.  Whether shopping for gifts for friends, family or yourself, Florence will not disappoint in any season.

On top of my list is Farmacia Santa Maria Novella.  As you step through the door of this once chapel of the church of the same name, the fragrance of the potpourri, colognes and soaps will greet and intoxicate and possible take you back in time. Started in 1612 by the Dominican friars of Santa Maria Novella, the products, with the help of Medici prestige and influence, became very well known throughout Europe. There are also many herbal and ancient preparations, such as anti hysterical drops, that are still popular among the Florentines.  My favorites products are: eau de cologne Melograno;  the Potpourri;  the Terracotta Melograno (pomegranate) and Dermprotectivo oil, which boasts of preventing stretch marks during pregnancy (which I do not have first hand experience with but my daughter in law can vouch for it ) and is also a wonderful skin oil with it’s melograno scent. I use it on my winter parched dry skin. Great to layer with the cologne of the same fragrance. As a big licorice fan, I can not resist buying a package of the licorice rocks which are divine.

Check out all the products at   http://www.smnovella.it/

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La Via del Tè near the St. Ambrogio market is a unique tea shop and a surprise find in a city where great espresso rules.  There are about 300 varieties of loose teas, fruit infusions and herbal teas.  Great selections of tea accessories such as tea storage tins, tea cups and pots, and gift packages.  My fav is the Fennel Licorice, a digestive mix and Ninna Nanna, for sweet relaxation. The shop has a wonderful tea room where you can have fresh scones and clotted cream. A fun change of pace to sit for an hour or so with friends rather than the quick espresso in a bar.

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http://www.laviadelte.com/detail_negozio.asp?ID=57&IDP=124

Gherardini is one of the oldest handbag names in Florence.  LOVE these handbags. Their most famous line “softy” is made out of a coated lightweight material trimmed in leather and embellished with beautiful zips and snaps.  I am over carrying heavy leather bags. These are practical and beautiful.  Gherardini also makes all leather handbags, wallets and belts and umbrellas, and even raincoats  The shop is located on the fashionable Via della Vigna Nuova.       http://www.gherardini.it/

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Let’s not forget about jewelry.

APROSIO!  Aprosio now on Via Della Spada features jewelry, handbags shoes, scarfs and more, handcrafted in Murano glass beads and Bohemian crystal.  Each item is a work of art delicately fashioned. 

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http://www.aprosio.it/about/

Angela Caputi is another amazing jewelry designer whose jewelry is made with plastic and other synthetic materials.  While Aprosio is delicate Caputi is bold. Both are beautiful and original.  Angela Caputi has two shops in Florence and the Strozzi Museuem gift shop carries a good sample of her collections.

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http://www.angelacaputi.com

Zecchi  is for art lovers. From paints to handmade paper it is the place where many Florentine artists prefer to get their supplies. Lots of history and located on the street Via dello Studio.  Nice selection of easels and artist smocks, and the paint brush selection will make you dizzy.  Fun to see the  bottles of brilliant pigments and tempera. Also, the bulletin boards are full of announcements of local art shows and studios, where one can investigate the possibility of taking lessons or just using some studio space.

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http://www.zecchi.it/

Clothing textiles and beautiful accessories for both the home and to wear can be found at Lisa Corti.  Many of the textiles are from India and her ideas and designs are also influenced by Japanese and Chinese traditions.  The textiles, place mats, tablecloths are colorful with terrific patterns. The shop in Florence is located in the St. Ambrogio district, near Cafe Cibreo.

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http://www.lisacortifirenzeroma.com

On Via Borgo deglo Albizi, 35,  you can find the women’s clothing and art gallery, Mimi Furaha. Michela, the owner, for many years was the very dedicated, knowledgeable and very personable sales person at Ponciff which has now been transformed into Mimi Furaha which means “I am happy” in her African language of Kiswaili.  She continues to carry Ponciff, some French designers and other Italian designers,  She often sponsors art events in her lovely store. She is delightful and her store is full of modern designs. I am particularly fond of the selection of hats.  http://www.mimifuraha.it/

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So, for newcomers to Florence I have given you a start…please readers share with me your favorite shops and we all will have some fun shopping to do in 2014. Next post will feature favorite food shops and restaurants.

Happy New Year to all from Fondly in Florence!

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Autumn Harvest, Italian Style.

The Italian cornucopia of the Autumn harvest comes to mind even as Thanksgiving weekend winds down in the Unites States.  Lines are blurred when thinking of fruits and vegetables in California for most are available all year long. The anticipation of Italian seasonal produce is mouth watering and adds to the excitement of waiting for special dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients.

Food markets are patchworks of color and aromas. You will be inspired…to taste them, cook them and yes, even join a local art studio to capture them in an oil painting!

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In the heart of Florence are two large markets: The Central Market, Mercato Centrale, near San Lorenzo and Sant’Ambrogio near the church of the same name.  Many smaller neighborhoods in Florence have weekly and/or daily stands.  My very favorite stop for produce is in Tavarnuzze, a small town on the way to Impruneta, 20 minutes south of Florence.   Augustino’s  fruit and vegetable shop is a boutique.  Amazing!

At Augustino’s, by the end of October or beginning of November, depending on the harvest, the freshly stone milled chestnut flour that comes from the Apennine chestnuts should be delivered.

My husband was raised in Pistoia, which lies at the foothills of the Apennine mountains and is considered one of the capitals of chestnuts. In November, when the best of the chestnut crop is ready and the grinding of the flour has been completed, you can buy chestnut crepes from local stands.  They are called Necci. Piping hot, either with sugar and/or fresh ricotta cheese.  WOW.  If you love chestnuts you can even have a great chestnut gelato at many of the fabulous ice cream shops in Florence.  (I am a big fan of the gelato shop, Perchè No!)

It is imperative to have fresh flower every season to make the Tuscan chestnut cake “castagnaccio”.  This is a chestnut flour cake (castagna in Italian means chestnut) with raisins, pine nuts, walnuts and rosemary.  Many Florentines have various opinions as to whether or not one needs to use rosemary or walnuts with pine nuts etc.  I love this cake and have fun experimenting with some of the ingredients.  I really do not recommend attempting to bake one unless you for sure know where and when the flour was milled.

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You can order the best Castagnaccio in Trattoria Ruggero on Via Senese 89r, Florence, Italy. This is one of the best traditional family run trattorias in Florence and reservations are necessary.  A suggestion is to ask that an order of castagnaccio be saved for your dessert as they run out of it usual by the end of the first seating!

In September grapes are harvested for the new wine. The sweet strawberry grape (uva fragola) is used for making a sweet focaccia called schiacciata con l’uva.  Most good bars and pastry shops in Florence make their own version and when you find the one you love, you will make sure you return to that bar to have a slice with your cappuccino.

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http://www.emikodavies.com/blog/schiacciata-alluva-florentine-grape-bread/

Notice that I started with dessert; well I guess you now know my Achilles’ heel!

Back to the in produce in season: Mushrooms, Mushrooms and Mushrooms! Whether it is Portabello, Ovoli, or so many other varieties, it is the PORCINI that is the king of the fungi. The scent alone can drive you wild.

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As you can see from the photo, they are not cheap at 25 euros a kilo. They are worth it.

Not sure I would buy them unless I knew my source was reliable.

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Have them with pasta tagliatelle, or grilled caps with olive oil garlic and parsley or Funghi trifolati, which are gently sauteed in olive oil and garlic.  Below is a fun dish made with potatoes and mushrooms.  Learned it at a local cooking school.

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Now, let’s move on to White Truffles or tartuffi which are now in season. Porcini mushrooms seem cheap compared to the price tag of 2,200 euros a kilo!  At 20 euros an order, it is a much better buy to eat them  with pasta at Trattoria Ruggero.

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Lots of variety of pumpkin and squash to be found.  Pumpkin or zucca is a great filling for ravioli and also makes great gnocchi.   At your favorite vegetable stand you can indicate how large of a slice of zucca you would like and it will be cut and packaged for you on the spot.

Blood oranges are in season as well as beautiful fennel that together make a great Sicilian salad. Here is a good recipe to give you an idea, however I would not use the red onion:  http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Sicilian-Fennel-and-Orange-Salad-with-Red-Onion-and-Mint-107626

Now one of the biggest highlights of being in Italy in the late Fall is tasting the freshly pressed olive oil… Liquid Gold! We packed 4 cans of these to take back to California.

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I can go on and on. What about broccolo romanesco, rape, kale (cavolo nero) and all the root veggies?

Bottom line, if you plan a trip to Tuscany in the Fall you will have many many great seasonal dishes to enjoy.

PS, there are many great Italian food dishes to enjoy in ALL seasons…stay tuned.

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Bells and Whistles!

One of the things I love most about living in Italy is experiencing the magic of the church bells ringing.  No need to check your watch, cell phone or even be connected, for the hourly and half hourly chimes are quite accurate.  Announcing the hour, calling to prayer, workshop, weddings and funerals, all varying in rhythmic patterns, add to the hit parade of bells.

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The most famous bell tower in Florence is Giotto’s Campanile located in Piazza del Duomo.

Each Florentine neighborhood has at least one church, so one can be serenaded throughout the city.

IMG_1420 Sant’ Ambrogio, my “quartiere” if full of hustle and bustle, yet the ringing of the bells in the evening to summon parishioners to Mass or at the hour of the Angelus, provides moments of a mental pause.

While walking in the rain, the muffled sounds of the bells can lift your spirits.

Another type of music heard in the streets of Italy, that may not be as uplifting as the bells, but none the less upbeat, is whistling.

In the midst of political and economic crisis I often hear people whistling as they go about the city.

Years ago young  women contemplating study or vacationing in Italy were warned that Italian men would at the very least whistle in appreciation of their beauty or at worse pinch their bottoms.   Fact or fiction I can not say, but appreciation and attention to and of beauty is very much alive and well.  In the United States, if men were to stare at well dressed women and nod their approval it would not be appreciated to say the least.  However in Italy, many women are flattered by the attention. There seems to be more of a mutual respect thing going on, or may I say an appreciation of la bella figura.

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La bella figura is all about an emphasis of beauty and appearances.  There are many implications of  this cultural characteristic, both pro and con, but for today’s post I will just concentrate on the art of looking good.  Italians have style.  As a person who also lives in Southern California, where I can truly appreciate living in a sweat suit and choosing not to worry about the latest fashion trend, it is fun see how the other half lives.

People dress at the market:

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while riding their bicycles:

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Pushing baby strollers:

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Or just strolling:

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It all just seems to fit.

So much to say about aesthetics and how beauty is displayed whether it be a personal fashion statement, arrangement of fruits and vegetables at the outdoor market or  shop window displays. It is all about the attention to detail.  A final photo of my favorite chocolate shop and how those works of art are displayed. Yes, I promise next post will be on my favorite shops and on seasonal specialty foods, but just a reminder that while in Florence listen for the bells and enjoy the view; you  just may find yourself whistling a happy tune!

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Stendhal Syndrome: Non Solo A Firenze!

Stendhal Syndrome or Florence Syndrome was named after the French author Stendhal in 1817 when during his visit to Florence, specifically as he left Santa Croce church, he experienced feeling faint and a rapid heart beat.

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 Church of Santa Croce

The definition of the syndrome per Wikipedia: “A psychosomatic illness that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness, fainting, confusion and even hallucinations when an individual is exposed to art, usually when art is particularly beautiful or a large amount of art in a single place.”  Many cases of tourists going to the local hospital Santa Maria Nova with these symptoms have been reported over the years.

During my first visit to Florence many years ago, I experienced the same sensations, as I visited the Church of Santa Croce and thought I was receiving the energy of the famous departed souls that are buried there.  Galileo, Michelangelo, Da Vinci and Enrico Fermi, just to name a few.

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Many of you reading this may have had experiences with Stendhal Syndrome and realize that one does not have to be only in Florence to experience it. Recently, I visited Venice and was overwhelmed by the art on display there.  Yes, Venice certainly has treasures of Renaissance art, but this time it was the contemporary art that blew my mind!

My husband and I were there to view the Biennale as well as relax and celebrate our wedding anniversary.  As the Biennale is closed an Monday we made plans to revisit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. The current exhibition “The Avant-Gardes of Fin-De-Siecle Paris: Signac, Bonnard, Redon and Their Contemporaries” has about 100 works of art.  It is rare that one can attend such a display of so many impressionist works of art under the same roof. I felt like a child lost in a toy store!

When viewing two artists work that I did not know of, tears began to fall.

Berthe Morisot’s  “Julie Playing a Violin”

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and Theo Van Rysselberghe’s Canal in Flanders, gloomy weather

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The next day two days were devoted to the 55th edition of the Venice Biennale. WOW!

I have previously been to three and this was by far, in my opinion the very best.

At the Giardini,  I did some research and limited the number of exhibits to visit, otherwise for sure I know I would have fainted out of sheer exhaustion trying to visit all 30 permanent national pavilions.  (There are a total of 88 National participants exhibiting at the Giardini, the Arsenale and throughout the city of Venice).

Loved the British Pavilion, which featured birds of prey snatching Range Rovers from the super-rich!

The Belgian pavilion centerpiece was titled Cripplewood., a gnarly, goth work that gave one pause.

The Austrian entry by Mathias Poledna was a tribute to storytelling, depicted in an animated film titled “Imitation of Life.  Very vintage Walt Disney in feel.

It was raining gold coins in the Russian Pavilion’s politically charged installation.

The Unites States featured artist Sarah Sze, who took this year’s overall theme , The Encyclopedic Palace, literally by using salt, water, sting. mixed media and other common items to create her vast installation.

The Venetian Pavilion made the use of silk and textures to create “soft” art. The lady in red below was made out of silk thread.  Exquisite.

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For me the most moving exhibit at the Giardini, and possibly all of the Biennale was the Egyptian. Very striking large models in a gold material and then just one descriptor plaque:

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“Do not panic from the wound, otherwise how can the light sneak inside you”.  One could not help but think of recent events there.

On to the historic vast Arsenale…
IMG_1150  This was the first year Indonesia set up its own pavilion at the Biennale and it did not disappoint.  Huge spaces were filled with larger than life scenes of Indonesian culture. Five artists contributed to this exhibit titled Sakti (Magic and Creative Power).

Saturated yet filled with emotion and needing  time to process all the wonderful culture and art, I stepped out into the Italian pavilion’s garden to catch my breath.

It all comes together under the Barber Shop pole!

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 FYI: Exhibit at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum closes on Jan. 6. 2014.

The Venice Biennale on Nov. 24, 2013

*A friendly word of advice: If you do not want to experience Stendhal Syndrome stay for more than two days.

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Shifting Gears

First month of my Autumn visit  to Florence completed. Now that the initial high of being here has subsided, I can get on with finding my Italian rhythm:  enjoying food shopping and visiting favorite restaurants, catching the latest museum exhibits and city events, as well as visits with friends and family.  It’s a good life!

The city was abuzz with bicycle mania.  Bicycles everywhere as teams of cyclists from all over the globe came to compete in the 2013 Bicycle World Championships or the Mondiale, as locals referred to it.  Most shop windows had innovative bike themed displays:

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as well as in other unlikely places:

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The city was so well organized that traffic, both pedestrian and vehicular, were kept to a minimum.  There was a sense of calm throughout the city, with the exception of the race participants who were intent on breaking records in the time trails and final races!

Congeniality and a genuine sense of well being and community were felt throughout the city.  My Florentine neighbor captured the moment when she exclaimed “If only we had the Mondiale all year long!”

The Fort Belvedere exhibit “Soul and Matter” by Zhang Huan was a perfect metaphor for the atmosphere in Florence during these weeks. Huan  emphasizes  the spiritual commonality of the religious leaders, Buddha, Christ and Confucius. East meets West in harmony.  Mutual understanding and common ground not only as experienced in this exhibit but throughout Florence during the Mondiale. Both Florentine residents and guests took the time to enjoy each other and the event.  A change of pace for all.

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* Huan’s exhibit at Forte di Belvedere ends on Oct. 13.  He also has an exhibit currently at the Pace Gallery in New York City.

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Now that vacations and city dwellers are getting back to work and school, will the atmosphere of this September, be consumed by traffic and shifting  gears?

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