Author Archives: fondlyfromflorence

Parole, Parole, Parole…Words words words and Going About Understanding Them!

Posted on March 21, 2016 by fondlyfromflorence

Whether coming to Italy as a tourist or a returning visitor one needs to prepare a plan for understanding the language to enjoy the total benefit of the culture..

Many of us keep a copy of an Italian-English dictionary on our smart phone or get motivated to study with language apps like Duolingo. Those with more time and lots of patience might enroll in one of the many language schools here in Florence. However those of us that want to jump into the lifestyle may not have the time or desire to sit in a classroom repeating verb tenses and pronouns. So it’s on to full immersion by everyday experiences.

Luckily in Florence, English speakers have access to many resources. The monthly news magazine The Florentine, lists many resources such as classifies ads that include language learning opportunities as well as articles describing all sorts of interesting events in Florence. The Florentine can be picked up at the Paperback Exchange, the Anglo-american bookstore, on Via delle Oche on the first Thursday of the month as well as the two central food markets. http://www.theflorentine.net/classifieds/

To really get immersed in the community go to the Florentine libraries. There are many beautiful libraries in Florence where you can read local periodicals and international newspapers as well as doing research. Be aware however that some of the libraries contain old manuscripts and are not lending libraries but rather museums. However they are so beautiful and well worth your time. Just this weekend at the San Marco museum I discovered the library there that was built for Cosimo de’ Medici. Beautiful manuscripts and choir books are on display there with many “words” albeit in Latin!

The Palazzo di Parte Guelfa has a wonderful reading room and library.

Bilbliotecha Nazionale located on Piazza Cavelleggeri off the Arno river is one of the largest in Europe and in my opinion can be overwhelming.

The most user friendly library in Florence is the Biblioteca delle Oblate on
Via dell’Oriuolo, 24. http://www.biblioteche.comune.fi.it/biblioteca_delle_oblate/

This is truly a community gathering spot with lots of activities and choices for all. Workshops, film, Children’s library, concerts, internet, wifi and a wonderful cafeteria open to 10:00pm a few nights a week.

The Oblate was the former site of the convert of the Oblate, which housed a secular order of women who voluntarily took care of the ill.

I was thrilled to pick up my first Italian library card there within minutes. Unlike the very complicated system of obtaining one in some of the other libraries in town.

Often trying to learn a language can be frustrating but when learning it while doing things you enjoy the words seem to come alive. Go to a local library and become involved in community activities. Sit among the locals.

Now learning the language idioms is a whole other subject for a future post but rather enjoy a book such as “In Other Words” by the Pulitzer prize writer Jhumpa Lahiri who not only describes her process of learning the Italian language but writes this novel in a dual-language format with one page in Italian and the facing page in English. Terrific idea and a great way to study the language.

A suggestion: get the book, take it to the Oblate cafeteria at sunset and enjoy one of the best views in Florence while reading it!

* AND just for fun, the great Mina song: Parole, Parole, Parole… have a listen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9TUV7ae5aA

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Children's library in Florence, In Other Words, Jhumpa Lahiri, Libraries in Florence, Palazzo di Parte Guelfa, San Marco Museum, The Florentine, The Oblate Library, The Paperback Exchange | 2 Comments

It’s All About the Divine as Florence Prepares for the Papal Visit

Posted on November 2, 2015 by fondlyfromflorence

The city of Florence is preparing for the visit of Pope Francis on Nov. 10, 2015. Scaffolding on the prime sites that he will visit are coming down. The Baptistery and the Duomo are shining and the Museum of the Duomo has just undergone an extension and renovation. In all the years that I have come to Florence I have never seen this complex look so brilliant. The Baptistery really is white!

Now, for the opening of the GREAT Museum of the Duomo or as is called in Italian: Il Grande Museo Del Duomo!

BREATHTAKING! Really, I had tears in my eyes. Most of the original sculptures and other art work that had been in the Cathedral for centuries are housed in the museum. For years many artifacts were held in storage and now are beautifully displayed here:

including the original Gates of Paradise exquisitely engraved in gilded bronze by Lorenzo Ghiberti. Took him over 20 years to complete! They were in their original place on the Baptistery till 1990.

The wooden models considered for the Cathedral are shown as well as a detailed video, both in English and Italian, showing the construction of Brunelleschi’s dome.

Donatello’s wooden sculpture of Mary Magdalene, The Penitent Magdalene, and Michelangelo’s last work, The Pietà, are beautifully displayed.

The website of the Museo Del Duomo has included this fantastic virtual tour: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS5k5CAwt5o

Breathtaking, right?!

In conjunction with the re-opening of the Museum of the Duomo and the National Bishop’s Conference, which Pope Francis will attend, the Palazzo Strozzi is presenting the exhibit “Divine Beauty from Van Gogh to Chagall and Fontana.” The relationship between art and religion from mid-19th century to the mid-20th century is the focus of the exhibit. I found that experiencing this contemporary art gives more relevance and meaning to religion/and or spirituality today. The contemporary art is a contrast to the wealth of Renaissance art surrounding us in Florence and both so very beautiful.

The Strozzi exhibit is not done necessarily in chronological order but rather thematic groupings. The Life of Christ, Contemporary Crucifixions, Prayer, Spirituality, Poetry and Sacred Space as seen in video installations.

Here we have Marc Chagall’s 1938 White Crucifixion. This painting was created to denounce the Nazi persecution of the Jews. Christ is wearing a Jewish prayer cloth and the biblical patriarchs are dressed in Jewish garments. I do not think it is a coincidence that this painting, which is the favorite work of art of Pope Francis is currently on display, to coincide with the Papal visit.

The Prayer, 1914, by Felice Casorati and Christ’s Entry into Jerusalem, 1920, by Stanly Spencer

Florence is putting on its best show for the Pope and an air of excitement permeates- It is just Divine!

Top Divine Eats…

I have noticed this trip that there are many new restaurants popping up that have a new creative feel to them. Yes, Tuscan food and established eateries are world renowned and excellent, but this new younger generation of chefs are pushing their culinary skills to new heights. In my last post I mentioned three, Club Culinario, Touch and Torcicoda . About one year ago, Cucineria la Mattonaia opened in our neighborhood. It makes a pizza that is DIVINE, with a dough that rises for 24 hour, quite the natural way, and very easy to digest. The pasta dishes, and fish as well as meat inventive along with twist on old favorites such as Cacio e Pepe (Cheese and Pepper) with added mushrooms.

One of my favorite wine bars (and bread/focaccia/pastry) shop, Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, offers a great fresh squeezed Autumn drink: Spemuta di Melograno or Freshly squeezed Pomegranate juice. What a great place to get your vitamins!

During this special moment in Florence, even the sunsets seem to be more Divine.

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: bellezza divina palazzo strozzi, Brunelleschi's dome, contemporary sacred art, Cucineria la Mattonaia, Gates of Paradise, Il Grande Museo Del Duomo, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Marc Chagail, Melograno juice, Museum of The Duomo Florence, Pomegranate juice, Pope Francis Visit to Florence, Strozzi Museum Divine Beauty | 1 Comment

Returning to Florence and Taking a Journey with Dante

Posted on October 9, 2015 by fondlyfromflorence

Great to be back in Florence after an absence of more than 6 months. I have learned that this is the year of Dante’s 750 birthday. Lots of celebrations have been going on and will continue for the rest of the year.

Last month the exhibit, Dalí Meets Dante, was at the Palazzo Medici Riccardi. Dalí illustrates Dante’s journey through Hell, Purgatory and Paradise, in his style, using a dreamlike quality through the use of watercolors. One hundred watercolors to illustrate each canto or verse. At last a way for me to understand the meaning of Dante’s Divine Comedy without having to try and understand the antique Florentine language of 750 years ago from the father of the Italian language! Now that I have visual connections to these verses maybe I can go back and check out one of my favorite Italian actors, Roberto Benigni reciting the verses of the Divine Comedy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfvQS0B5lYo

While I am at it, time to visit the Tuscan butcher of Panzano, Dario, to hear his rendition and order some great steaks.

Beautiful illustrations often pretty tame compared to the wild and modern Dalí that I am most familiar. These were done by Dalí in staring in 1950 and took hi nine years to complete.

A favorite verse from the Inferno is Amor, ch’a nullo amato amar perdona (The power of love that does not allow for someone who is loved not to love back). My husband quoted it during his toast to our son and future daughter-in-law at their rehearsal dinner!

At the Palagio dell’Arte della Lana, where the Society of Dante is based, a series of lectures on Dante is currently taking place. This week I attended the lecture there on Purgatory. It was very interesting to see the interior of this beautiful building which is often closed to the public. Next month the final presentation on Paradiso will be given.

http://www.dantesca.it/eng/

As a new feature to the blog this year I will list some of the my top current finds in regards to pop culture, fashion and food. Hope these are some fun tips if you are in town or planning a trip here soon.

THE BUZZ

Top Reads: Everyone here is talking about the author Elena Ferrante and her Neapolitan Novels. The novelist has written about two girls from Naples who try and achieve a better life within the postwar violent society of Naples. the books are in this order, My Brilliant Friend, The Story of a New Name, Those Who Leave and Those Who Stay and the Story of the Lost Child.I have just finished reading all four and feel these are on my all time favorite list of novels. Ferrante’s first and last book of the series were listed #2 and #3 on the LA Times best Seller list and both Time and Vanity Fair have articles about the author and her books this month.

Top Eats: Visited three outstanding restaurants in the last few weeks all in the Santa Croce and Sant’ Ambrogio areas.

1. Cucina Torcicoda on Via Torta 5R http://www.cucinatorcicoda.com/?lang=en

2. Touch Florence on Via Fiesolana 18/R

3. Club Culinario Toascano da Osvalso on Piazza dei Peruzzi, 3R

Style Watch:

Seeing lots of rolled up cuffs on jeans:

Concert: Malika Ayane Oct. 28, 2015

http://www.teatroverdionline.it/cartellone/musica-leggera/616-malika_ayane_il_28_10_15_ore_20_45.html

Happy travels and lots of Amor!

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Celebraing Dante in Florence, Dalí Meets Dante, Dante, Elena Ferrante, My Brilliant Friend, Neapolitian Novels, Purgatory, The divine comedy | 7 Comments

How Twentieth Century Art Found Its Place in Renaissance Florence

Posted on March 2, 2015 by fondlyfromflorence

If you are lucky enough to be in Florence this first week of March and have not yet seen the exhibit “Spotlights on the Twentieth Century” you have one week to get to the Gallery of Modern Art at the Pitti Palace. This is a not to be missed collection of art that up until now had been designated to depositories due to lack of space at the museum.

In November of 2014 Fondly from Florence highlighted some of the newer venues that celebrate Contemporary art. https://fondlyfromflorence.wordpress.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=484&action=edit

The Gallery of Modern Art has existed at the Pitti since 1924. The Accademia Gallery in Florence had housed in some of it’s rooms the Italian Impressionists or Macchiaioli which could be said then where the pioneers of the contemporary movement back in the mid nineteenth century. This exhibit has been assembled to celebrate the 100 year anniversary of the foundation created to ensure a designated place to show modern art in Florence.

The Gallery of Modern Art is a museum within a museum at the Pitti.

Here a look at the Pitti complex

Many of the paintings at the current exhibit at the Gallery of Modern Art are works that had been acquired at the Venice Biennial between 1925-1945. Works were also donated or acquired from important art shows in Rome. The Premio del Forino award also provided an avenue to obtain contemporary art for the museum.

The following important artists of the Macchiaioli are Giovanni Fattori and his Maremma Toscana.

Telemaco Signorini’s Rooftops at Riomaggiore

The bar Giubbe Rosse, that is still in the center of Florence today, was a meeting place of artists all during the 20th century.

Here we have Carlo Levi “Narciso” 1965

At the Novenceto museum many works were donated to Florence after the devastating flood of 1966 to rebuild the contemporary art collection.

In the permanent collection of the Novocento musuem one can view

Giorgio Morandi

and

Giorgio de Chirico

I would be remiss if I did not list the Marino Marini Musuem as a wonderful space to view 20th Century art.

The museum is housed in the ancient church of San Pancrazio. Here the works of Marini are displayed in the space created especially for him in 1988. A great space to view the large sculptures of Marini.

It is inspiring to see how all genres of art are valued in Florence and how creative the Florentines have been throughout history to ensure a home for these treasures.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence | Tags: Contemporary Art in Florence, Gallery of Modern Art at the Pitti, Italian Impressionists, Marino Marini, Novecento Museum, the Macchiaioli | 2 Comments

On the 12th Day of Christmas in Florence…

Posted on January 6, 2015 by fondlyfromflorence

What’s great about being in Florence during the Feste or Christmas season is the holiday pacing. Back home in the States we tend to get into the Christmas rush, now a days, before Halloween. Here things don’t start to get on a roll till after Dec. 8, the feast of the Immaculate Conception. By then one tends to really be in the moment. The decorations, concerts, fairs and markets happen daily and just seem to be very timely. Seriously, the 12 days of Christmas are a celebration with one holiday after the other. Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Dec 26 and the feast of St. Stephen, New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day, and finally January 6 or Little Christmas. Everyone slows down, even the national pastime of soccer is on hold during this period. You hear people wishing each other, Buon Natale, best wishes or Auguri everywhere. The ending of one year and the beginning of the next is a 12 day celebration.

Ice skating in St. Ambrogio

Although Babbo Natale or Santa have top billing pre- Christmas and Christmas Eve, just around the New Year preparations are made to welcome La Befana.

Legend has it she makes her appearance and fills stockings on Jan. 5, the eve of the celebration of the Epiphany or the Adoration of the Magi. Before the popularity of Babbo Natale, or Santa, the Epiphany was the big day for gift exchange. The Befana is likened to a benevolent witch who flies around on her broom stick and she knows who has been naughty or nice. She will leave candies or charcoal…

Most neighborhoods have stands full of candies, Befana dolls, stockings and charcoal for sale.

At these stands one of my favorite Tuscan treats, Brigidini, can be found. These are anise flavored sweet thin wafers that are great with just about everything.

On January 6 the feast of the three Kings or Adoration of the Magi is celebrated with a big procession in Florence. It is called Cavalcade of the Magi (Wise Men). The celebration takes place in the center of Florence where the participants are dressed in period costumes.

(Photo from Visit Florence)

The Palazzo Medici Riccardi’s Chapel of the Magi houses the beautiful frescoes by Gozzoli. A very good time to visit and enhance your holiday experience.

By January 7, schools reopen and folks get back to their jobs and the store sales begin. The Italian version of our Black Friday took place on the first day of the sales, January 3 this year.

The New Year is off to a great start.

Best Wishes from Fondly From Florence for a happy and healthy 2015!

A presto! See you online soon.

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Adoration of the Magi, Brigidini, Carbone, Cavalcade of the Magi, Epiphany, Florence holiday celebrations, La Befana, New Year's Day, Saldi, Sales | 3 Comments

Side by Side: New Venues for Contemporary Culture in Renaissance Florence

Posted on November 10, 2014 by fondlyfromflorence

Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance and thanks to Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici, the last heir to the Medici dynasty, her family’s vast collection of art must remain there. One would be hard pressed to find another city that houses more early Renaissance art. Along with over 70 museums and historical landmarks (http://www.museumsinflorence.com/index.html) the city’s landscape is the backdrop to arguably the world’s most famous open air museum.

However, contemporary culture and art are also alive and well in Florence. The addition of the museum, Museo Novecento and “Opera di Florence” are welcome examples.

The Novecento museum is housed on the site of the thirteenth century Leopoldine hospital, which more recently contained the Alinari National Museum of Photography. The former cloister/hospital borders the south side of the splendid Piazza of Santa Maria Novella. Here I am looking out of a second floor window in this very modern museum gallery.

The foundation and bones of the museum may be early Renaissance, but the contents, multimedia booths, video rooms and sound devices are contemporary and cutting edge. There are many interactive exhibits appealing to children as well as adults.

Twentieth Century Italian art is the focus with a selection of 300 works to experience

On the top floor is a viewing room where you can sit and enjoy a wonderful collage of twentieth century films that celebrate Florence. Here are a few examples of some of the selection of films: Amici Miei, Obsession, Room with a View and Tea with Mussolini. This is a great way to relax and catch your breath before leaving the museum and exploring the church of Santa Maria Novella or the Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella.

Yes, everything is different at the Museo Noveconto and there is something to be enjoyed and experienced by all.

An example of the use of modern architecture in a large green area with panoramas of historical Florence is the new “Opera di Firenze” located at the entrance to the Cascine park, near Porta al Prato.

The cultural center was just recently fully completed, and to say that it is impressive is an understatement! The architect Paolo Desideri and others designed this ultra modern structure which consists of three concert halls including an open air auditorium. Pedestrian access to roof top terraces allows for panoramic views of the historical center as well as the beautiful Cascine park. The old and the new are complementary.

Recently I attended an opera and the acoustics: state of the art.

The cafe and bookstore are open daily (also on non performance days) allowing for family outings and enjoyment of the 13.301,60 square meters of public grounds.

Truly a new GRAND modern piazza and entertainment complex for Florence and Europe.

Renaissance art and the contemporary arts continue to add a fine balance to the culture and richness of Florence. Everything that is old is new again!

Categories: Culture observations, Observations in Florence | Tags: Cascine Park in Florence, contemorary art scene, Films about Florence, Florentine Renassiance and Contemporary Art, Museo Novecento, New opera house of Florence, Piazza Santa Maria Novella | 1 Comment

A Tale of Two Markets: Mercato Sant’ Ambrogio and San Lorenzo Mercato Centrale

Posted on October 2, 2014 by fondlyfromflorence

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…” Charles Dickens.

Here in Florence it really is the BEST of times with exciting improvements to our major city fresh food markets:

San Lorenzo Mercato Centrale

Mercato Sant’ Ambrogio

The architect Giuseppe Mengoni designed both buildings, Sant’Ambrogio in 1873 and Mercato Centrale in 1874. At this time Florence was the capital of Italy and many new projects were in progress such as the building of Piazza della Repubblica and the construction of the two major food markets. Mengoni at that time also designed the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan all prototypes for today’s “mall” concept but trust me, you will never find a food court to compare with these markets at your local malls!

In the past year both markets have undergone changes such as extending hours, offering discount cards and in the case of San Lorenzo, opening the “primo piano” or as we would call it the second floor of the building. More about that great addition later.

In the East part of the city, in Piazza Ghiberti near the church bearing its name, is my neighborhood market of Sant’ Ambrogio. It is smaller than the Mercato Centrale near the Church of San Lorenzo, however it has both indoor and outdoor food stalls or “bancarelle.”

San Lorenzo tends to attract more tourists while Sant’ Ambrogio is where you will see a majority of locals. There exists a wonderful sense of community between merchants and shoppers. It is common to hear conversations about family and politics. If you stop by Bar Cibreo for a morning coffee you are sure to find friends and neighbors.

The outdoor stalls feature fresh produce. some regional cheese and fresh flowers. There are also many great clothing and housewares stalls.

Here we have Stefania tending to some of the freshest fruits and veggies you can find. This stand has been in her family for years with her Mom Wilma in charge till she retired.

One of my favorite vegetables that I can not seem to find in the States is MangiaTutto, which are wide flat board beans that are so tender. Means “eat it all” and I do!

On alternating days, there are stands featuring cheese and olives and other specialties from the South of Italy.

Inside, La Botteghina della’ Augusta is our go to place for fresh pasta, cold cuts and some cheese. Here we have Ilaria, Augusta’s daughter. The Gnudi (Ricotta and cheese dumplings) are amazing. No need to make your own.

Another favorite is Luca the butcher. The polpettone (ready to cook meatloaf is excellent)

After a busy morning of shopping one can have a quick lunch insider the market at Rocco’s trattoria.

At the San Lorenzo market all food is inside. Just recently outside stands that sold leather goods, scarfs and souvenirs have been moved to give the whole area around the church and market a fresh look. It is wonderful to be able to have the open space.

On the “ground” floor are the food stands that are open , as in Sant’ Ambrogio, from 7 am to 2 pm daily. Both markets have additional hours one or two days a week.

There is more variety inside the Central market with some specialty shops selling mustarde, jams, packaged pasta, fresh flowers and candies.

Also at the ground floor of the Central Market lunch is available at Nerbone, a Florence institution. If you happen to be in Greve in Chianti you can find Nerbone also there. The adventurous can eat Trippa alla Fiorentina or tripe , which is their specialty. Count me out.

Now it is time to visit the newly renovated “primo piano” of the Cenrtal Market. This is a WOW!

It has been opened about 6 months and it is a very busy place. Luckily it is open daily from 10:00 to midnight. Here you can check out the fresh mozzarella and see how it is made.

The fresh baked bread is the best in Florence. (possibly, because it is salted!) Have a freshly made panino with prosciutto.

There is also a cooking school with classes open to students and to the public.

The BIG surprise now inside the Central Market is EATALY . When I heard that Eataly was coming to Florence I thought, why??? with all the great food and eateries here; but wait EATALY is a great addition to Florence! Here you can find Italian groceries, cook ware and fresh food from all over Italy. The prices are very fair and in some cases even cheaper than the high end specialty markets we have throughout the city. By the way, a larger Eataly with restaurants, as in New York, can be found on Via dei Martelli and it is FABULOUS!

So my recommendation to any tourist in Florence is to spend one day eating at the new Primo Piano. You can have antipasti at one stand, move not to a hot dish, have a secondi and then dessert. If you need a break go to visit the San Lorenzo church and the Medici Chapel. It will be one of your best days in Florence!

This sign really captures the essence of the food movement here: “Life is to short not to eat and drink well”

It really is the very BEST of times for a foodie in Florence!

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: bancarelle, Eataly, Florence Food markets, foodie, Giuseppe Mengoni, Gnudi, malls, mangiatutto, Mercato Centrale, Mercato Sant' Ambrogio | 5 Comments

Back to Florence / Il Rientro a Firenze

Posted on September 12, 2014 by fondlyfromflorence

During the first two weeks of September tourists in Florence can witness the slow steady stream of Florentine residents slowly getting back into their city lifestyle. During the month of August most of the city dwellers leave for the seaside and/or exotic international ports. If one is lucky enough to get to Florence before the masses return, you can have the city to yourself and still discover somethings that may go unnoticed when trying to navigate the normally busy streets. Upon returning to Firenze after a few months back in California, I appreciated the less crowded city. On a leisurely walk a few days ago I stumbled upon a little church I had never seen before: The Ex Oratorio di San Pierino on Via Gino Capponi near the church of Santissima Annunziata. A lovely terracotta lunette by Santi Buglioni is over entrance and a G. Della Robbia crucifix ceramic on the wall. The ex church is now the headquarters of the Dante Alighieri society.

It’s a big problem to try and read the information sign with graffiti sprawled across it. So sad to see graffiti even on the monuments throughout the city.

Observing on my leisurely walk: Ben and Jerry, REALLY… Maybe it is for the visiting American students?? There are so many great choices here, whether ice cream or gelato. Seasonal flavors include coconut and rice. If you really want to have a tasting party the International Gelato festival comes to piazzale Michelangelo from September 12-14.

Walking by the Gallery Hotel Art could not help but notice the “Personal/Unpersonal installation by artist Simone D’Auria. Info guide states the artist’s inspiration were the great men who made the city of Florence and were commonly described to the people using emblems that depicted them with heads of animals.

In much contrast to these “white” figures are the returning city dwellers…

You can bet the tanned and fashionably dressed folks you see returning to Florence are the locals, who are in sharp contrast to the white figures climbing the wall near the Hotel’s entrance! La bella figura is very evident. The temperature may be hot and humid but the latest fashion trends prevail. This is the year of the boot. Rather than sandals you will see the latest boot styles paired with shorts or mini sun dressers. No matter if your feet are hot.

Any minute now Tuscany will start to get very crowded, with tourists as well as returning residents and many will be going to local wine tasting parties/feasts called “Sagra”. It is the VENDEMMIA, the grape harvest.

As for me I’m off to have a slice of schiaccia con l’uva (Focaccia with grapes) which is a delicious sign of the season. I think I will check out the variety at the Central Market, which I know I have been overdue on reporting. My next post will come out sooner or later now that I am here and SO INSPIRED!

A presto!

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: city lifestyle, Ex Oratorio di San Pierino Florence, Florence between seasons, focaccia with grapes, gelato in Florence, graffiti in Florence, installation "Personal/Unpersonal, la bella figura, schiaccia con l'uva, Simone D'Auria, vendemmia | 6 Comments

It’s a Florentine Spring Thing

Posted on May 24, 2014 by fondlyfromflorence

Being in Florence during the Spring is a feast for all the senses.

Walking to Piazzale Michelangelo (or taking a cab, bus or car), is special in any season, with it’s breathtaking views of the city. Check out the photo on the header of this blog to see another view in the snow!

However, during the month of May two gardens of Piazzale Michelangelo are not to be missed: The Iris Garden and the Rose Garden.

The Iris Garden was established in 1954. Here you can see about 2500 varieties of iris, which happens to also be since 1251, the symbol of Florence. The Giglio, which is translated as lily, can be seen on many plaques, building, flags etc. not to be confused with the Fleur to Lis which is the “lily” and symbol of Paris. Difference is the Florentines have added some extra stems between their petals.

Each Spring since 1954 the International Iris Competition is held here. The following are some photos of this year’s entries as well as past blooms.

Just down the ramp of the Piazzale, the Rose garden can be discovered. It can also be accessed from San Niccolo and other walking paths. In 1865, the Giardino delle Rose was built to add to the beauty of the then capital of Italy – Florence. It is on 2.5 acres on the hill of San Miniato, just below Piazzale Michelangelo. Also great views of the city to be had from this garden.

Within the garden you can find beautiful sculptures by the Belgian artist Folon. There also is a Japanese section of the garden which was donated by Zen Temple Kodai-Ji of Kyoto.

Remember as you walk through Florence there are also many other beautiful green areas to visit that are especially vibrant in the Spring. The Cascine is the largest park in Florence now housing the new opera house and hosting a great weekly market on Tuesday. The Boboli gardens are magnificent and can be accessed through the Pitti Palace, included with the admission ticket. Don’t forget the neighborhood giardini such as Piazza D’azeglio that resembles an English square with elegant residential buildings surrounding it as well as a lively carousel in the garden frequented by the neighborhood children.

Not only can you fill your senses of sight, sound and smell during a Florentine spring but let us not forget the important sense of TASTE!

Yes, I would be remiss if I did not mention at least two of the many culinary delights of the season.

FAVE and ARTICHOKES! Baccelli (Fava beans) and Pecorino cheese in a salad mixed with pears…oh my, so fresh you can taste Spring. 59fbcc59e8155607c7ae0a9903b99826

A you tube guide to making a fava bean and pecorino cheese salad:

http://www.bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/1237/insalata-di-fave-e-pecorino-fresh-broad-bean-and-p

You can shave fresh artichokes and eat them in a salad with Parmesan chesse; another explosion of Spring for your mouth.

Check out this you tube video to get an idea of what I’M TALKING ABOUT:

My favorite way to enjoy artichokes is with pasta.

Pasta-with-artichokes-plated

Now, I must add comments about the ingredients. Artichokes and fresh fava beans in the pod, DO NOT taste the same in the States. Artichokes are too big and a bit tasteless and it is near impossible to find fresh fava bean pods, and I live in California. SO… come buy them at a local market in Florence during the Spring. Now there is a reason to experience Spring in Florence!

Next blog, next month on two new markets in Florence for your food shopping convenience. 🙂

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: artichokes, Baccelli con Pecorino, Boboli, Cascine, Fave and Pecorino, Giardino delle Iris de Firenze, Giardino delle Rose Firenze, Piazza D'Azeglio, Piazzale Michelangelo, Rose garden of Florence, Spring in Florence, The Iris Garden of Florence | 1 Comment

Le Piccole Botteghe…The Small Wonders of Florentine Neighborhoods

Posted on April 26, 2014 by fondlyfromflorence

Most Florentine neighborhoods have little shops where residents can easily walk to do their daily shopping. Il Forno-the bakery, macelleria-butcher’s shop, ortolano-fruit and vegetable stand as well as the hardware store or ferramenta.

In, Sant Ambrogio , our hardware store is legendary. I Gemelli, nickname for this mesticheria casalinghi (means anything a housewife needs) owned by the twin Mazzanti brothers has existed in the same location for 40 years. This is so much more than a hardware store. It is Florence’s mini Home Depot and then some. Not only can one find tools, batteries, nuts and bolts but everything else.

The interior space is divided into 6 or so smallish rooms and then down some winding steps to the lower level to some more “cramped” space. Just outside the rear door are garden items as well as larger items. It is amazing to see just how much merchandise can be PACKED into this little shop. Pots, pans, plates, cups, detergent, soaps, paper goods, glasses etc. and GADGETS galore. It gets so busy that you take a number and wait in line to tell your server what it is you need or you may walk about and then wait line with all you can hold. If you don’t see it just ask, believe me they have it…

Just across the “via”, at Borgo La Croce 66/r, is another great little shop: Orologioielleria Poggi. It is a small jewelry shop specialized in watch repair as well as selling and repairing gold and silver items. A nice selection of picture frames and religious items for baptisms, communions and confirmation as well as earrings, necklaces and bracelets can be found here. Here I get backings for my earrings replaced, batteries for my clocks, rings adjusted and necklaces restrung. Finding skilled artisans right in your own back yard is a treasure. More about the need for Italy to encourage and cultivate young artisans to keep up these skills before they are extinct will be explored later.

Another neighborhood staple is the dry good store or “mercerie.” Here cotton goods such as socks, pajamas, and underwear can be found. My favorite “mercerie” is Delcor on Via della Spada 14-16r.

This shop is 52 years old and like most of the small specialty shops in Florence is a family run business. Daniele continues the work of his father and grandfather.

The collection of buttons is special. You will want to replace buttons on your jackets and coats just to view this collection of gems!

The collection of Gallo socks, Ragno tops and lace camisoles are my favorites. Just love these socks.

Everything in the shop is of top quality.

One of the great pleasures of Florence is to discover these small specialty shops and appreciate the quality of service and knowledge of the shop keepers as they take such pride in showing you their wares.

As follow-up to my last post on Florentine hats or i cappelli: https://fondlyfromflorence.wordpress.com/2014/04/03/i-cappelli-di-firenze-hats-hats-and-more-hats/

I was able to visit Grevi Moda and tour the facility with Giuseppe Grevi.

Giuseppe and his sister manage this near 100 year old company. Here I was able to observe just how much skilled craftsmanship goes into the execution of these hats that are sold all over the world. It was amazing to watch as strands of straw and hemp were sewn to form stunning hats.

Each flower for the hats were hand sewn.

Watching as the hats were placed on hot forms to give them shape, one by one, made me appreciate just how much skill goes into the execution of Grevi fine hats.

I applaud the efforts of the hat consortium in Florence as its members continue to promote “made in Italy” and the keeping of the creation and manufacturing of goods local. As the country and it’s youth struggle to find solutions to the economic crisis, the answer may very well be in the legacy of the fine artisan goods. The selling of goods that reflect the history and culture of a population has an additional market: tourists. Tourism for Italy can be their number one resource.

Will the small shops become extinct? Are big malls the answer for Italy? (We are discovering that many of the malls in the United States are sitting empty; yes online shopping is a factor yet there is a movement to shop local as well).

It is time for the torch to be handed to the youth. Is it time to revisit the ideas of craft guilds where artisan, along with manufacturing skills can be taught?

Time to problem solve and insure that Italy continue to manufacture and showcase its small wonders for all to enjoy.

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Florence, Florentine neighborhood shops, Grevi Moda, guilds, hardware store, i gemelli, Italian hats, le botteghe, mercerie. Italian dry good store, mesticheria, Mesticheria Mazzanti, Poggi watches and repair. Delcor | 2 Comments

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