Auguri Auguri, Best Wishes, words of the New Year, Epiphany and La Befana

Posted on January 6, 2024 by fondlyfromflorence

Here in Italy the Christmas holiday is extended, giving everyone some time to relax from the hustle and bustle of the preparations and shopping for Christmas. Today Italians celebrate the Epiphany, the day of the Three Kings, a national holiday, as well as celebration of La Befana. Yes, Santa Claus (Babbo Natale) arrives on Christmas Eve, but La Bafana, the witch on a broom stick who arrives on Jan. 5, Epiphany Eve, bringing treats to children, & is eagerly anticipated. The Bafana dates back to the 13th century. She has been around much longer than Santa Claus. Legend has it that she refused to travel with the Three Kings to see Baby Jesus, then regretted it and continues to fly around bringing treats to well behaved little children in hopes of finding the Christmas Child and giving him her belated gift. Children long ago put out their shoes hoping they would be filled with treats and not the dreaded pieces of coal left to naughty children. Possible the universal Christmas stockings are a nod to the original tradition of leaving out shoes.

To be in Italy during the end of the year festivities and Christmas celebrations is truly charming. Walking the streets and hearing Buone Feste (happy feasts) and Auguri really does carry good will. 

By next week the beautiful Nativity scenes, Presepes and spectacular decorations will be taken down. Here are a sample of some:

Life size Nativity scenes with a modern day theme. 

Waving the banner of the Florentine soccer team is the owner Mr. Rocco! 

A life sized hand carved wooden Nativity scene in the Dolomites, where many lucky folks visit to ski or just enjoy the nature but most of all the hospitality of the people who host them.

Candy store with its assortment of Bafana dolls

All the museums in Florence have been open during this period with the exception of Christmas and New Year’s Day. Some current exhibits are on till the end of January, beginning of February while a few end in April. 

The following are three very popular contemporary exhibits. At the Innocenti, Alfonso Mucha’s Art Nouveau scheduled to end on April 24. 

The Palazzo Strozzi, Untrue Unreal exhibit by Anish Kapoor is on till Feb. 4, 2024. This is one for the whole family as it is interactive and combines science and architecture. Very educational as you really try to figure out how the artist was able to create these installations.

At the Museo Novecento Cecily Brown’s, Temptations Torments Trails and Tribulations is on till Feb. 4, 2024.

The beauty of Florence is that there are also lesser known galleries and museums that you can just serendipitously walk into and discover wonderful exhibits at very reasonable prices. The Palazzo Medici Riccardi for example is showing Depero, Cavalcata fantastica till January 28 and it is another exhibit that the whole family can enjoy.

The biggest WOW for me was to go to Casa Buonarroti and experience the small but powerful exhibit featuring the restoration of Artemisia Gentitleschi’s “Inclination” painted between the years 1613-1620. Artemisia, was accepted into the Academia delle Arti del Disegno in 1616, the first woman to do so.. She is considered to be one of the most important painters of the Renaissance, not an easy feat for a woman in those days! A very informative video describes her life including a very difficult period making you appreciate all the more how she was able to overcome and produce such incredible work. There is also an in depth explanation of the recent restoration and the technology used to achieve the results.

Artemisia Gentlieschi’s “Inclination” and below her “St. Mary Magdalene

As this holiday season comes to and end and the New Year starts, I wish you all health, curiosity and more time for serendipity in 2024. May we all give and receive more kindness to help make the world a more peaceful place.

Till the next time.

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Autumn in Florence: A Feast for the Senses!

Posted on November 17, 2023 by fondlyfromflorence

November in Florence is a time to savor the harvest. Yes, a time to experience the culinary delights of the season.

We arrived 2 weeks ago just in time to get the last slices of schiacciata con l’uva: delicious focaccia with grapes. In September at the end of the vendemmia (wine harvest) the Canaiolo grape is the grape chosen both for its size and sweet taste, to be used in this speciality of Tuscany. Purists to tradition insist to use the grapes with seeds and as these grapes are tiny one just enjoys the crunch! Just about every cafe and bakery (bar and forno) take pride in their own version of this delicacy. If one gets to Florence at the beginning of the season a fun thing to do is make the rounds & every day try a different one to pick your favorite. The season is short and once it’s over (in early November) we start the wait till next year. Oh sweet November!

Also in November chestnuts are picked and when dried ground into chestnut flour. The flour is also known as farina dolce (sweet flour) as it is naturally sweet made from roasted and finely ground chestnuts. For those of you who are celiacs looking for a gluten free alternative, it is one to try. At the moment there are chestnut carts in town where you can buy a bag of roasted chestnuts but those in the know understand it is still a little too soon to find this year’s flour as they are now peeled and drying. Yes one can find the delicious chestnut cake called CASTAGNACCIO in many restaurants now but most probably the flour was frozen from last year’s batch. Castagnaccio is one of my very favorite desserts as it is high in complex carbs and very tasty. The fresh flour should be out any day now and I can’t wait. It is traditional to sprinkle walnuts, pine nuts and raisins over the batter before cooking. Generations of cooks have their secret ingredients and the owner of my neighborhood bar has promised me her recipe when she delivers the fresh flour to me in a few days. I’ve been sworn to secrecy…

Now to the liquid gold of Italy: Olive Oil. This is the season when olives are harvested, helped along by enthusiasts who take part in their collection. This is almost a cult like happening where folks of all ages join in the effort. Whether their own olive trees or that of a neighbor, the more the merrier for this party like atmosphere. Each region of Italy has their olive farms and orchards with olives ready to be picked in September to November depending on the climate of the region. After the olives are picked they are taken to an olive mill or frantoio and are pressed. The first cold pressed is the EVO – Extra Virgin Oil. Try tasting this olive oil on a freshly baked slice of bread or crudités. There is nothing like it and if the oil tickles your nose and throat: Eureka!!!

Schiacciata con’uva Castagnaccio new olive oil in 1 liter can and ready to taste

Not only are our senses of taste and smell evoked during a Florentine Autumn but checking out the new renovated theaters, the museum exhibitions and the fashion scene are something to see.

On November 4 one of the oldest cinema houses (100 years old) in Florence was reimagined and reopened after a period of renovation. The Odeon has been showing films in their original language since the eighties and many of the films were in English thus giving the ex pat community as well as American students a meeting place. One could go to the Odeon alone to watch a film and know that she would be met by so many friends and acquaintances. A community treasure. A beautiful art deco theater that needed a face lift. It has gone through a complete make-over and yet we are able to see it’s original beauty and architecture, including the mosaic tile floors and stunning columns. The landmark now contains a floating bookstore as well as the theater stage and screen. The balcony now has approximately 150 seats (the original theater on two floors had over 500). The Giunti bookstore is open all day and then for the 9:00 pm showing of the film, lights out and the show goes on. It will be a change not to have three shows a day and many of us might not love the idea of a 9:00 pm seating but my feeling is that this is something that could be changed if there is interest. The huge improvement is the addition of three-four bathrooms and an elevator as well as a cafe and bar open to the public all day. So we are excited to see the direction the Giunti Odeon takes and can’t wait for the many community events to be scheduled.

Presenting the Giunti-Odeon bookstore, cinema, restaurant & more…including an elevator!

It has been said that the movement of Art Deco is an extension of Art Nouveau. Currently at the Innocenti Museum has an exhibition of Alphonse Mucha who has been considered a master of the Art Nouveau movement. It has received lots of lots of buzz and promises to be a visual extravaganza. It will be featured in my next post.

There is quite a selection of contemporary art at this time in Florence along with temporary and permanent exhibits of Renaissance art. There is enough to appeal to the taste of everyone.

From left to right: Anish Kapoor. Unture Unreal, Palazzo Strozzi, till Feb. 4, 2024; Giovanni Stradano 1523-2023, Museo Palazzo Vecchio till Feb. 2024; Depero, Cavalcato fantastica, Palazzo Medeci Riccardi till January, 28, 2024; Alphonse Mucha, Museo Degli Innocenti till April 7, 2024

For your listening pleasure Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino never disappoints and currently Puccini’s La Boheme is playing Nov. 22, 25 and 29.

La Bohème, available dates on November 22, 25, 29. Resumption of the show staged in Sept. 2017 and Dec. 2019 & acclaimed by all…not to be missed.

Fashion and style trends in Florence are always a treat to see. This Fall I was surprised to see many Florentines wearing white jeans. As many of you know in the States white is not worn after labor day. I bet that is about to change. Also white and beige winter wear is on display in the shops.

If you have doubts about Florence in November I hope you have been convinced that it is a glorious month to come. Yes there can be rain, but the stifling heat is gone as well as many of the tourists. Come and enjoy the view.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, food, traditions, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Spring has Sprung…é arrivata la Primavera

Posted on May 4, 2023 by fondlyfromflorence

Shades of green can be seen all around Florence as trees and plants are beginning to bloom. The wisteria show has been ongoing for the last few weeks soon to end its reign of violet throughout the city. The highlight of the wisteria show is at the Bardini Gardens. The Iris garden is open as well as the Rose garden SO a walk or ride to Viale Michelangelo is in order to experience the beauty of Spring in Florence.

One can see the purple irises popping up all over the area of Piazzale Michelangelo. Violet is the color of Florence and the color of the beloved soccer team Fiorentina!

It has been my experience that the months of April and May are the busiest time of the year in Florence. Not only do visitors come during Easter break but also for the holidays of April 25 and May 1. These holidays are extended by connecting them and forming a bridge (fare un ponte) to take at least a weeks excursion. It really can be overwhelming to see such crowds in the center of Florence but once you get to know the side streets and other less traveled neighborhoods in the city, crowds can be avoided.

I have enjoyed our first month of a two month stay by checking out restaurants as well as shops and cultural events. It is sad to see the closures of some favorite restaurants and shops. As in the States, COVID left some businesses without much of a choice but to close their doors. Shortage of staff seems to be a global problem as well. Hopefully a new normal will settle in and the change will be good for all.

There are some of my old favorites doing well and the newer restaurants are really doing well.

Seems that in general most places are updating their menus and adding newer twists to traditional Tuscan cuisine as well as a focus on International cuisine. Don’t worry if you want traditional Tuscan cuisine, it’s everywhere. It is nice to have choices.

In past posts over the years I have listed Il Latini, as one of the best traditional Florentine restaurants in town. If you are a steak lover, this is the place. The quality of food and ambiance is to be experienced. The changes they have made is to eliminate weekday lunch.

Another excellent Tuscan Trattoria is Ruggero.

Ditta Artigianale continues to thrive and now has five locations in Florence. If one wants to have an American style breakfast, a light lunch or aperitivo with small bites this is the place.

Pescepane continues to offer delicious fish at a reasonable price.

My favorite, Il Nugolo still never disappoints and offers Tuscan food with a modern flair. The food is farm to table and amazing. Not to be missed.

french toast at Ditta Artigianale
IL NUGOLO

As far as shops (& restaurants) seeing so many international chain stores such as H&M, Zara, Hard Rock Cafe, etc can be disappointing. These stores are concentrated in the center of Florence. One needs to hunt to find the lovely small shops that one expects in Florence. I guess this is the fate of globalization, for better or worse, and most European cities have the same landscape of stores.

I have been lucky to find some great shops that are indeed Tuscan and have the workmanship that we come to expect from Italy.

Uashmama right in the center of town, on Porta Rossa, a family run company founded in Tuscany, (https://www.lesorelle.toscana.it/en/homepage) is a find.

Here you will see sustainable items for the home as well as handbags that are made out of washed paper. Absolutely beautiful design and worth a look.

I
Innovative Florentine shop UASHMAMA!

There is a lovely women’s clothing store near Piazzale Donatello, Le Civette on Via dei Della Robbia, 92. Beautiful Italian fashion.

Speaking of fashion….for years Italian handbags were the it bags everywhere…Gucci, Ferragamo, Prada etc. Now Florentine woman are wearing the “it” bag from Michael Kors. Times are definitely changing.

A sure sign of Spring is the opening of Maggio Fiorentino, the opera season at the Opera of Florence. Don Giovanni has opened the season and if you here there are two more performances left. Not to be missed…https://www.maggiofiorentino.com

Inside entrance of opera house
If you don’t want a meal or drink at the inside bar and cafe, there is always the food truck!

Happy Spring everyone and see you soon. A presto!

Categories: Uncategorized | 6 Comments

A little bit of this and a little bit of that…Un po’ di questo e un po’ di quello!

Posted on October 20, 2022 by fondlyfromflorence

Nothing beats being able to go with the flow and doing things spontaneously if at all possible. Visit some favorite restaurants, discover new ones, go to outdoor markets, stop in at free exhibits, attend a concert buying tickets at box office last minute, and just take the time to observe cultural differences while people-watching.

Take a walk in the hills of Florence on a beautiful day. I recommend the walk from Piazzale Michelangelo then climbing up to the Basilica di San Miniato next up to Forte di Belvedere, down to the neighborhood of San Niccoló.

Walking sticks sure do come in handy!

At Piazzale I met Victoire who creates mosaic jewelry in the Florentine style that can be so difficult to find these days. I remember collecting picture frames and pill boxes years ago. Mosaico Bizantino articles can make great gifts.

Worth a stop. Her work is beautiful.

In Florence there are monthly outdoor markets. On the third Sunday of every month the organic market at Santa Spirito has aa selection of spices, herbs, delicious jams, cheese etc. as well as handmade hats, scarfs, toys and more. Quality stuff.

Just about every square has something going on, any day of the week, and if its an arts and crafts (artesan) fair & you happen to pass one do check it out. Here at Piazza Dei Ciompi is one I was lucky enough to find at sundown.

While walking through the Piazza della Signoria, after spending time gazing in awe at the recently renovated Neptune Fountain, I noticed a “free entry exhibit” in the Palazzo Vecchio (the working City Hall of Florence). Any excuse will do to visit this historic building. It is an exhibit by a contemporary artist that centered around famous women in Florence from the Renaissance to modern times. Mixed media and very interesting.

Neptune in his glory and Dante’s Beatrice

As you wander around the city you’ll will observe that sidewalks can be very narrow as their adjacent streets. Problem is Italians like to converse in small groups on the sidewalks & often do not move (or are aware) that folks need to pass. Often one has to step into the street to pass them (or trying saying “mi scusi”, which has its own hazards. Watch out for the bike riders and be sure to look both ways before stepping into the street. Actually cars are known to be parked and/or moving on sidewalks as well. We can call this Italian “creative” free thinking or cultural differences???

Sunday morning Oct. 9, 2023 concert at Fondazione Zeffirelli

The Museum Zeffirelli within the complex contains his body of work. He was a master not only of film, but staging operas and designing sets. He was and still is a favorite son of the city.

Next post will feature current favorite restaurants and fashion trend. Happy travels and a presto!

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence | 8 Comments

Al Rientro a Firenze/ Upon re-entering Florence…

Posted on September 24, 2022 by fondlyfromflorence

After an absence of many months it takes me a week or so to get in sync with the local customs & surroundings to develop my Florentine routine. For those of you coming for the first time or coming again and again (UNDERSTANDABLE!), allow me to share my strategies for getting the most of a visit.

Walking through the city to check out what is new and/or which of your favorite stores or restaurants are still open helps to reacquaint you with the city.

Visiting neighborhood essential shops such as favorite food market stands or the local pharmacy to greet the shop owners and hear the wonderful phrase, “ben tornata”, (welcome back) gives you a warm fuzzy feel.

Whether you are visiting for a few days, weeks or months obtaining a copy of the English-speaking news magazine, The Florentine, will keep you informed as to the latest cultural happenings in the city. http://www.theflorentine.net as well as the monthly magazine Firenze Spettacolo. I also make a habit of stopping at the local newsstand, “edicola” every Saturday to pick up the newspaper Corriere Della Sera which contains the Saturday magazine “Io Donna”. Not only does it cover some of the cultural events in some of the major cities of Italy, It is all about the fashion “La moda” and we want to be up to the latest trends so we can make the most of our shopping trips. 😉

Once I have my overview and I am on italian time I am ready to go experience La Dolce Vita!

On these first walks through the city you can’t help noticing the onslaught of tourists…making up for lost time during the height of the pandemic. One soon discovers the less traveled side streets to get around.

You will be tempted to walk into every store you pass as the window displays are so artfully done.

local flower shop

The surprise of catching outdoor installations confirming the fact that Florence itself is an outdoor museum. Love to see the mixing of contemporary art in the middle of all the Renaissance architecture.

At the San Lorenzo basilica complex there is a temporary outdoor exhibit on show until October 31 created by the artist Emanuele Gianelli. These resin, hand painted statues are creating quite a stir. It is a not to be missed photo op. The white statue, called Mr. Arbitrium, looks as if he is holding up the wall of the church or doing a stretch before he takes a run.

In the cloister of the complex the artist’s work, The Suspended, “I Sospesi” features resin figures hanging from their ankles. There are many interpretations of the the meaning including the a possible statement of the condition of todays society…at any rate food for thought.

I was motivated to visit the contemporary museum Novecento in Piazza Santa Maria Novella after viewing the San Lorenzo exhibit. As some of you might recall the last post I wrote during my last visit to Florence featured the Novecento. One of the current exhibits highlights the British artist Tony Cragg and his sculptures. Another show not to be missed and it’s on till Jan. 15, 2023.

As we navigated new neighborhoods we came across the restaurant Gervis. In ten days we have been there twice. A great find. https://gervis-bistro.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral

Back room at Gervis

Do plan your adventure around Florence by doing a bit of scouting. It will serve you well and make your visit all the more meaningful. Happy Travels and “A Presto”.

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, food, Observations in Florence | Tags: , | 8 Comments

Jenny Saville Dominates the Museum Scene in Florence

Posted on November 13, 2021 by fondlyfromflorence

Currently drawings and paintings from the British contemporary artist Jenny Saville are in exhibit at five museums in Florence. It’s the HAPPENING of the art scene here. Her art is juxtaposed next to the Renaissance masters, comparing and contrasting the theme of motherhood as well as nudes and female faces. She is the only “She” artist represented in the room; Renaissance art just got real! The comparisons ties the art of the Masters to one of our greatest living artists. Each work from both the Masters and Saville, side by side, has added to their depth and meaning. This is a journey not to be missed.

If you are in Florence this exhibit will continue through February 20, 2021. My suggestion is to start in the Museo Novecento to get an appreciation of Saville and her figurative and portrait art. Do not discard your ticket for it will be useful in the other four museums that are part of this expansive exhibition. This link will provide you with the hours, days and discounted prices of the Museums. http://www.museonovecento.it/en/jenny-saville-orari-e-biglietti-dei-musei-coinvolti-nella-mostra/

Here at the Novecento, inside the former church of the Spedale, is the portrait of Rosetta ll, a blind woman. The setting for this work is quite special as when looking through the door you, as well as Rosetta can gaze across the Piazza Santa Maria Novella into the Basilica SMN, to glimpse of Giotto’s wooden crucifix hanging in Nave when the church door of the Basilica is open.

At the Novecento there are 70 drawings and paintings of the artist, with 30 more, spread across the other four venues.

Once completing your visit to the Novecento, visit the other four museums in any order.

The Museo degli Innocenti, was next on my journey. Here with Botticelli, Luca Della Robbia, Saville shows us her motherhood. So fitting to see these in the former Orphanage of the Innocents.

At the Casa Buonarotti the theme of motherhood continues including the Jenny Saville’s study for Pieta V as well as Mother and Child drawings from Michelangelo and Saville

Pieta V Saville; Madonna Col Bambino Michelangelo; Study for Pentimenti IV (after Michelangelo for Virgin and Child), Saville

In the Salone dei Cinquecento located in Palazzo Vecchio, Saville’s “Fulcrum” is displayed amid sculptures of the Renaissance and the great murals of Vasari’s massive men in battle. In Fulcrum we see a mountain of naked women.

The last visit on my Saville journey was to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Beside Michelangelo’s marble Pieta, a larger than life drawing of Saville’s family in the same entwined pose.

My hope is that this expansive and important exhibit will be extended past February 20 so visitors to Florence in the Spring can view it. Also important to remember that these five museums should be on the top of anyone’s list of attractions when coming to Florence. There are impressive works of art in the permanent collections of all these museums. You will be moved.

Truly, one does not need to wait on a line for hours (the Uffizi and Academia) to see GREAT museums in Florence. My all time favorites here are, the Innocenti and the Duomo. You can view my past posts on the Museo degli Innocenti https://wordpress.com/post/fondlyfromflorence.com/1018 and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo https://wordpress.com/post/fondlyfromflorence.com/615

Happy travels!

Categories: Contemporary Art in Florence, Culture observations, Observations in Florence | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

Il Ritorno…The return to Florence 2021

Posted on October 1, 2021 by fondlyfromflorence

After an absence of almost two years due in large part to the COVID epidemic we are happy to finally be back in Florence. Took a good week to get over a PTSD induced jet lag brought on by the anxiety of preparing for an international flight during a global pandemic, however one look at this vista and one feels reborn.

What I’ve found most impressive upon arrival is the attention paid to safety and the following of COVID rules here. One can not enter a restaurant, concert hall, museum and indoor/outdoor happenings like sporting events etc. without a green pass or similar proof of vaccine from your country, in my case the Center of Disease Control (CDC) card from the USA. Masks in all shops including supermarkets, in churches, and on public transport.

Now that all of that has been established it is time to enjoy Autumn in Florence.

First things first, RESTAURANTS….

Just before leaving Florence during our last trip we were able to have dinner at Nugolo. It was open about a week and already there had been lots of buzz about this farm to table new eatery. As I followed its progress on Instagram during our exile I knew that it would be a first stop upon our return. The seasonal menu offers an original take of Italian favorites as well as new modern Mediterranean dishes. For example, Tortelli filled with ossobuco with a green sauce and candied lemon. Wonderful atmosphere as well.

Nugolo

Tortelli filled with ossobuco

Le Lune, I am happy to report, is thriving as it is in the middle of a nursery where you will be seated at a table surrounded by shrubs and beautiful plants giving you privacy and space. New chef and new choices make for a great menu.

Le Lune

Arà has opened a spot to sample their Sicilian “street food” on a lovely outdoor patio. They have been doing a great take out business as well during the pandemic. It is next to Pescepane where great fish dishes can be found. Both are located in the Sant’ Ambrogio neighborhood which has become the #1 foodie “quartiere” of Florence.

Ara

Speaking of Sant’Ambrogio, right next door, actually attached to the church’s cloister, is a new Caffe called Ditta Artigianale. The space is fantastic, with the church’s architecture taking center stage. They offer brunch between 9:00 am and 3:00 pm and a full cocktail bar with cocktail dinner bites such as pulled pork sliders, summer rolls and tacos later in the day. Yup, brunch is also American style with pancakes, and bagels and avocado toast. For those of you that are students or just in Florence for a lengthy stay sometimes a taste of home (often better than home) can be a welcome change. Judging by the number of Florentines enjoying the Ditta Artigianale I’d say the owners got this one right; it is a huge success and the talk of the town!

Ditta Artigianale

  • Ditta Artigianale

Happenings…

Museums are open and showing new exhibits.

The Strozzi (Palazzo Strozzi) starting Oct.2 through January 30, 2022 will feature Jeff Koons. Shine. The exhibit will feature a new perspective on the history of contemporary art in the United States. A selection of more than 80 works by 55 artists including Andy Warhol, Louise Nevelson, Roy Lichtenstein, Mark Rothko and many more.

As Florence is celebrating the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante, he is the focus of many exhibits. The Ufizzi Gallery currently is showing “In the Name of Dante. The Casentino in the Divine Comedy” till Nov. 30, 2021.

The opera house of Florence, Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, has a full schedule of concerts, opera and symphonies. I recently attended a performance of La Traviata which was one of the best performances I have ever seen. Noteworthy is the attention to detail and the precise organization of keeping the audience safe and socially distanced.

note the social distance spacing

Opera House of Florence

Teatro del Maggio

Moda:

Looks like the color green and color blocks dominate the fashion scene here in Florence. Lots of bright color after a somber lockdown. Lots of every shade of green. It is said that the color green can represent hope and renewal and ENDURANCE.

Lots to do and lots to see…Florence is waiting for you! So to those of you who are contemplating a trip back to Florence, rest assured, every measure has been taken to see that the spread of COVID is contained. So many of us have missed traveling, in particular to this city of wonders. We can travel smart by following the rules. A small price to pay to feeling alive again. Happy & safe travels. A presto!

Categories: Culture observations | Tags: , , , | 6 Comments

Missing Florence? Why not bring it home.

Posted on February 1, 2021 by fondlyfromflorence

As we continue planning our next exciting trip to our local supermarket or walk around our neighborhood we think of the days when we seriously created itineraries for our Spring travel. This time of year booking airlines and planning vacations back to Florence and beyond are on our radar. During this pandemic the best we can do is zoom with friends and family or check out past episodes of Rick Steves’ Europe.

OR we can try to bring Florence into our homes….

Last April I posted on this blog some tips for virtual events that can transport us, at least in spirit to Florence.https://fondlyfromflorence.com/2020/04/25/fondly-from-virtual-florence/

Since then many others who work in the tourist industry in Florence have added virtual events that can help bring everything Florentine to you.

Elizabeth Namack, a local Florentine Art Historian and guide (and good friend) has added some innovative virtual events to her website “My Italian Treasures” https://www.myitaliantreasures.com/

I’m very excited about the Virtual Cooking classes (next on the menu Tiramisu, to lift us all up!) and Bike tours which I have registered for in the month of February. The best is there is no cost but a donation if you wish. https://www.myitaliantreasures.com/calendar/

Elaine Ruffoflo https://www.elaineruffolo.com continues to offer twice a week virtual encounters that can feature guest speakers and online course packages.

Forma Sideris is the title of Art Historian Alexandra Lawrence’s Conversations with Art section on her website https://www.exploreflorence.it/formasideris/

Speaking of Cooking….why not think of the wonderful restaurants you have visited and revisited on your trips to Florence and start creating your version of your favorite meal. Yes, as many of you know, my husband is an incredible master of all things Italian in the kitchen, but many of you can be as well.

Think of your favorite Florentine meals enjoyed this time and start creating…

The Crostini Toscana at Il Latini . Chopped liver Italian style with capers can be a version to try in your kitchen.

One of the dining rooms at Trattoria Cesarino

Trattoria Ruggero

Ribollita, the Tuscan winter soup (minestra), is on most Tuscan restaurant menus this time of year. Il Latini , Cesarino and Trattoria Ruggero have excellent versions of this dish.

The following is a recipe from Eataly, which by the way has a great shop in Florence as well.

Ribollita Recipe

Recipe courtesy of Eataly
Yield: 8 servings
1 bunch Tuscan kale, cut into 2-inch ribbons
1 head savoy cabbage, cut into 2-inch ribbons
1 bunch Swiss chard, cut into 2-inch ribbons
2 russet potatoes, peeled and diced
3 large carrots, peeled and diced
2 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes
2 zucchini, diced
1 rib celery, diced
2 leeks (white parts only), sliced
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 cups cooked cannellini beans, half pureed
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
Leaves of 1 sprig thyme
Fine sea salt, to taste
1 to 2 cups (2-inch) cubes stale bread
Place the olive oil, leeks, and garlic in a large pot over low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks and garlic are soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots and celery, and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have softened but not browned, about 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and zucchini and cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 more minutes. At this stage, add the kale, cabbage, and chard, and cook – always stirring! – until the greens are very soft, about 8 minutes. Stir in the red pepper flakes.
Add the tomatoes and their juice, squeezing the tomatoes between your fingers to break them up. Add 2 quarts of water, the bay leaf, the thyme, and all of the beans. Season to taste with salt.
Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook until the vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaf.
Add the bread cubes to the soup, and simmer until the bread is breaking apart and the soup is very thick, about 10 minutes. Let the soup rest off the heat for several minutes, and then ladle into warmed bowls. Drizzle a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil over each portion before serving.
Buon appetito

And hope to see you soon in virtual Florence or better yet in Florence!!!

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Buone Feste Firenze! Happy Holidays Florence. I miss you so!

Posted on December 26, 2020 by fondlyfromflorence

This time of year often is filled with nostalgia and it seems even more so during this pandemic. As 2020 comes to an end & we all try to navigate the the holidays as best we can, thoughts of Florence come to mind.

Touching objects from Firenze takes me back. Back to the neighborhood shops; the international shops; the museum shops; the boutique food markets and everyday life there.

These past nine months here in the United States, I found that the possessions that I choose to wear for example, are from Florence. I will choose a pair of Gallo socks or a Petit Bateau tee shirt (purchased in the Florence shop) not only for the comfort of their soft fine cotton but for the warmth they give my body and soul. Grevi hats are worn with affection. I proudly choose scarfs and sweaters from Max Mara, La Rinascente and the local outdoor markets.

The two vacuum packed bags of Santa Maria Novella potpourri that I have left will be used sparingly.

Aprosio bracelets and earrings as well as Angela Caputi necklaces and pins adorn the top of my dresser; my objects d’arte.

These objects trigger memories:

Memories of walking into a magnificent cathedral, a neighborhood chapel or one of the seventy plus museums while meandering through the city.

Memories of the life loving people of Florence that I have come to love. The art of living La Bella Vita all while displaying La Bella Figura. The rituals and traditions especially during the holidays. “Buone Feste”; “Tanti Auguri” greetings to be heard and exchanged with gusto and sincerity.

The seasonal fruits and vegetables… The pride of the merchants…

The art of savoring a meal or a coffee with friends. The list can go one and on.

Yes, life also is not the same in Florence during COVID. It’s been a tough year for all.

While we wait for the end of this pandemic, we dream. We dream of what we had and what we hope to have again.

Dear Florence, wishing for a “rebirth” or Renaissance in the city of the birthplace of the Renaissance as well as everywhere. We are waiting, waiting to once again appreciate all you have to offer. Buone Feste and Auguri per un felice 2021. Tanti Tanti Auguri.

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Fondly From Virtual Florence

Posted on April 25, 2020 by fondlyfromflorence

In this time of the pandemic Covid 19, travel plans have had to be put on hold. Disappointing for sure.  Those of you who were looking forward to visiting Florence may still be able to enjoy museums tours and as well as special presentations given by some of Florence’s most sought after art historians and tour guides…all online.   Think of this as a time to build your foundation in all things Florentine so when the world opens up for business you will be all set to go. So take a break from Netflix streaming and tune into Florence.

The following link takes you to Art Historian Elaine Ruffolo’s web site.  Last Sunday I joined her zoom presentation on the highlights of the life of the artist Caravaggio. There were close to 300 in attendance. It was a very special treat. Sunday, April 26 she will be discussing Michelangelo. Check her website for future virtual presentations. Not only will you be experiencing first rate events, presented by an expert you also will be better prepared to enjoy your trip to Florence hopefully in the near future.

https://www.elaineruffolo.com

There are over 70 museums in Florence and some have virtual tours. Two that have a good selection of virtual tours are the Uffizi and Grand Museo del Duomo

https://www.uffizi.it/mostre-virtuali

The bight side of a virtual tour: No lines, no crowds, no scaffolding. Below, Palazzo Vecchio, The Loggia della Signoria and the Uffizi Museum

IMG_1062

https://www.museumflorence.com/museum

Works at the Museum of the Duomo, including Michelangelo’s last Pieta.

 

At the start of the quarantine in Florence, the Councilor for Culture and President of the Teatro della Toscana established an open and shared forum for artists to contribute and use a venue to stream concerts, and performances through a you tube channel: https://tinyurl.com/firenzetv

Another good site to visit is the website from the Opera Theater of Florence to check for news of virtual concerts: https://www.maggiofiorentino.com/en/home/

Let’s continue to take comfort connecting with our families, friends and communities  through platforms such as zoom, skype, What’s App and to also travel to our favorite destinations. Florence is just a click away!

Stay Safe!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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